I replaced my faulty alternator on the diesel Accord, I took some pictures as i went along so i can add it to the knowledge base.
My alternator clutch went, but it is a known issue that the bearings can were out on these due to the location of a idler pulley, the belt is tight around the alternator pulley applying to much force. The HONDA fix is new bearings and a new shorter belt routing illiminating the offending idler which eases the tension alot. If you look it makes sense as the idler is very close to the alternator causing a tight wrap around the alternator.
I didn't put the shorter belt on today as i didn't have it, but in warmer weather i will. The guide is still applicable to changing over to the new belt system and i'll cover it below
what you'll need:
10/12mm Spanner + in socket form
14mm long reach ring spanner preferably with 40deg bend
WD40 with straw
basic things like screwdriver, pliers etc..
possibly a extra pair of hands when putting belt back on
hammer, plasters, tea when things don't go right
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Please read this ALL before going ahead with the job. I'll try to make it as detailed so anyone who has the tools can do it, I would say its a fairly straigh forward job
once you know how and this guide 'should' make it a doddle.
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Disconnect battery
While removing bits/bolts remember to note where they go back in.
We will be removing one of the two fan shrouds to allow access as without removing it the alternator WILL undo but will not come out the bay as i learnt. If your just changing belts it may be
possible to leave this in.
There are four 10mm bolts to remove at the top and two to loosen bottom end but before you do, get under the car (i didn't jack it up)and partially undo the tray cover. 2 10mm bolts either end and 3 trim clips this will allow you access to the two bottom bolts. These will be slightly rusty so spray plenty wd40 on now.
Back at the top remove the 4 bolts starting with the two holding the coolant reservoir, then the other two holding the fan shroud. The wiring plug is held CLIPPED into the shroud, UN-CLIP these DON'T pull.
the top is now free, proceed underneath the car and locate the two bolts at the bottom of the fan shroud, these will be paralel with the two top bolts. The bolts may be enlarged with rust, I used a 11mm ring spanner to loosen the rust off first before it catched with the correct 10mm. You only need to loosen to remove the shroud. make sure all wires (2 wire plugs, 1 cable clip) are removed, remove the fan shroud.
picture of bottom bolts from top with shroud removed
Now you have access to manouver, we can start on the alty. Disconnect the wiring plug, earth (10mm bolt), and cable clip. locate two top bolts on the alternator remove them and the shield they hold.
There are two more at the bottom remove them, the belt will come away alternator now comes out
you can just make out bottom bolts
Note: bolts are different size so note which way the go
if you are doing honda's revised way using shorter belt and minus idler pulley, this is located closest to the alternator. you can remove this ONLY if your using the shorter belt guys!
below is how to route the new belt, also shows how the old belt is routed. Its a tight space but a new belt can be routed with fair ease getting from under the car.
As you can see its a much better way compared to old.
with the alty out you can service/change whatever it is needed.
re-fitting is just in reverse with a few additions adding the belt, when re-installing the alty first attach the belt to alternator but it wont line up with the bolt holes with the belt on being too tight,
what you need to do is attach the 14mm long reach ring spanner to the pre-tensioner nut (below P/S pump) and turn clockwise this will slacken the belt allowing you to line the bolt holes up, put one in the top left as a stay (don't tighten) and locate the bottom left and tighten then replace the other bottom bolt.
once the two bottom bolts are in the wont budge, remove the top bolt re-install the shield and replace top two bolts. This is the way i found easiest, you may find bolting in the alty and then putting the belt over easier.
The pre-tensioner is spring loaded so will return to it tensioned position when you let go.
Its wise to remove the two bottom bolts that hold the shroud and remove the rust and add a little copper slip to the threads.
re-install the rest in reverse order, re-connect battery.
All done.
Hope this helps a few people out.
My alternator clutch went, but it is a known issue that the bearings can were out on these due to the location of a idler pulley, the belt is tight around the alternator pulley applying to much force. The HONDA fix is new bearings and a new shorter belt routing illiminating the offending idler which eases the tension alot. If you look it makes sense as the idler is very close to the alternator causing a tight wrap around the alternator.
I didn't put the shorter belt on today as i didn't have it, but in warmer weather i will. The guide is still applicable to changing over to the new belt system and i'll cover it below
what you'll need:
10/12mm Spanner + in socket form
14mm long reach ring spanner preferably with 40deg bend
WD40 with straw
basic things like screwdriver, pliers etc..
possibly a extra pair of hands when putting belt back on
hammer, plasters, tea when things don't go right
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Please read this ALL before going ahead with the job. I'll try to make it as detailed so anyone who has the tools can do it, I would say its a fairly straigh forward job
once you know how and this guide 'should' make it a doddle.
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Disconnect battery
While removing bits/bolts remember to note where they go back in.
We will be removing one of the two fan shrouds to allow access as without removing it the alternator WILL undo but will not come out the bay as i learnt. If your just changing belts it may be
possible to leave this in.
There are four 10mm bolts to remove at the top and two to loosen bottom end but before you do, get under the car (i didn't jack it up)and partially undo the tray cover. 2 10mm bolts either end and 3 trim clips this will allow you access to the two bottom bolts. These will be slightly rusty so spray plenty wd40 on now.
Back at the top remove the 4 bolts starting with the two holding the coolant reservoir, then the other two holding the fan shroud. The wiring plug is held CLIPPED into the shroud, UN-CLIP these DON'T pull.
the top is now free, proceed underneath the car and locate the two bolts at the bottom of the fan shroud, these will be paralel with the two top bolts. The bolts may be enlarged with rust, I used a 11mm ring spanner to loosen the rust off first before it catched with the correct 10mm. You only need to loosen to remove the shroud. make sure all wires (2 wire plugs, 1 cable clip) are removed, remove the fan shroud.
picture of bottom bolts from top with shroud removed
Now you have access to manouver, we can start on the alty. Disconnect the wiring plug, earth (10mm bolt), and cable clip. locate two top bolts on the alternator remove them and the shield they hold.
There are two more at the bottom remove them, the belt will come away alternator now comes out
you can just make out bottom bolts
Note: bolts are different size so note which way the go
if you are doing honda's revised way using shorter belt and minus idler pulley, this is located closest to the alternator. you can remove this ONLY if your using the shorter belt guys!
below is how to route the new belt, also shows how the old belt is routed. Its a tight space but a new belt can be routed with fair ease getting from under the car.
As you can see its a much better way compared to old.
with the alty out you can service/change whatever it is needed.
re-fitting is just in reverse with a few additions adding the belt, when re-installing the alty first attach the belt to alternator but it wont line up with the bolt holes with the belt on being too tight,
what you need to do is attach the 14mm long reach ring spanner to the pre-tensioner nut (below P/S pump) and turn clockwise this will slacken the belt allowing you to line the bolt holes up, put one in the top left as a stay (don't tighten) and locate the bottom left and tighten then replace the other bottom bolt.
once the two bottom bolts are in the wont budge, remove the top bolt re-install the shield and replace top two bolts. This is the way i found easiest, you may find bolting in the alty and then putting the belt over easier.
The pre-tensioner is spring loaded so will return to it tensioned position when you let go.
Its wise to remove the two bottom bolts that hold the shroud and remove the rust and add a little copper slip to the threads.
re-install the rest in reverse order, re-connect battery.
All done.
Hope this helps a few people out.