Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

K24 Manual Black Tourer

Looks good mate. Are you talking about removing the tank pump ***embly? I think my mechanic just used a hammer and screwdriver to gently spin it round which is what most garages would do.

I did however replace the fuel pump on my old Saab recently and I bought a proper tool like this one, I think it should work on the Honda too as it’s adjustable.

 
Last edited:
F6HAD said:
Looks good mate. Are you talking about removing then tank pump ***embly? I think my mechanic just used a hammer and screwdriver to gently spin it round which is what most garages would do.

I did however replace the fuel pump on my old Saab recently and I bought a proper tool like this one, I think it should work on the Honda too as it’s adjustable.

Click to expand...
Mate that’s perfect, thank you. There’s a video on YouTube of a guy taking it out and the tool he uses looks exactly like that.
 
Grille looks much better, subtle to the point most will never notice the effort but definitely worth it in my opinion doesn't stick out like an after thought like the standard one does now.

Congrats on the oil change satisfying doing it yourself but I'm to lazy these days haha
 
Hondoob said:
MdK9tEZ.jpg
vDmiZAB.jpg


I've had a fairly busy weekend. Did my first oil and filter change on the Accord which was also my first oil and filter change on a car, ever. I wish I'd had the space to do it on previous cars because it really is quite simple. Got myself a decent pair of ramps (makes the whole process much easier/safer) and got to work early Saturday morning to avoid the heat. Previous owner had genuine Honda filter and I'd already bought the removal tool so getting the old, hugely over-torqued filter off was a breeze. To be honest, the hardest part of the whole process was getting the old filter, which was covered in old oil after removal, out of the tool! Thanks to @SayamaAccord for recommending the right oil. Got myself a 20L to bring down the cost in the long run. I plan on doing the oil every 6K to half year and the filter every 12K to year.

Whilst I had the car up on the ramps I decided I may as well get the grille removed and respray the satin finished surround in the same Crystal Black Pearl as the body, as I feel it's the only point of design that let's the car down; why have all the trim in chrome apart from the grille surround in satin? I found this guide on the American Acura TSX (same as an 8th Accord) for removing the bumper and grille super helpful as it is spot on. You do have to remove the entire front bumper and with my EX disconnect the wiring harnesses for the front fogs and parking sensors too; all quite easy, but note there are no shortcuts here, the bumper must be removed. Before and after pics below.

VUutMYl.jpg

Before

JDBY1sV.jpg

After - subtle but worth it.

Next time I'll be getting the fantastic local bodyshop to paint for me, as this was a massive pain in the arse and they'd do a much better job.

One thing I've got left to do is change the in-tank fuel filter. @F6HAD your post on the FR-V is really helpful. I've already got the filter delivered, but need the proper tool to remove it. Do you know where I can buy this from?
Click to expand...

Great thread, thank you so much.

I think you’ve answered a question I’ve just posted regarding my 7th gen grille removal, ie that you have to remove the front bumper to get the grille off.

Did your grille have three clips on the underside, connecting it to the front bumper?

Do you have a special tool to remove those? I’m afraid I’ll break the quite fragile plastic grille if I try and use too much force.

Also, what make of car stands are those you used?

Many thanks :)
 
JezUK said:
Great thread, thank you so much.

I think you’ve answered a question I’ve just posted regarding my 7th gen grille removal, ie that you have to remove the front bumper to get the grille off.

Did your grille have three clips on the underside, connecting it to the front bumper?

Do you have a special tool to remove those? I’m afraid I’ll break the quite fragile plastic grille if I try and use too much force.

Also, what make of car stands are those you used?

Many thanks :)
Click to expand...

Did your grille have three clips on the underside, connecting it to the front bumper? - 4 clips I believe. 3 of them snapped so I just zip tied it back on.

Do you have a special tool to remove those? - Yes! Can't remember exactly which one but if you search fastener removal tools there's plenty to choose from.

Also, what make of car stands are those you used? - These are the Heavy Duty Rhino Ramps I use.

When removing the bumper it's very likely some of the plastic clips will break. I bought the following 3 clips in advance as I thought a number would be old and brittle: 1, 2 & 3 - however please note these are used on the 8th gen, but I have no idea about the other gens.
 
You're right, it's 4 clips, not 3 as I'd previously mentioned :)

Makes sense to buy a set of clips, I do have one of those remover tools, just wondered if there was a better tool for getting these ones that are connected to the grille off more easily as that grille is mighty plastic and brittle feeling (no margin for error!)

Just found a really good/easy online supplier of these push rivets (making finding the right ones for your car pretty simple);

Honda Accord Mk7 (2002-2007) Trim Clips and Fasteners

Honda Accord trim clips and fasteners selection. Free UK Delivery on our huge range of replacement clips & fasteners
www.vehicleclips.co.uk www.vehicleclips.co.uk
 
I haven't updated this thread in a while, but I've done a few bits since I last posted.

Clutch Slave Cylinder Delay Valve Removal - late August

I briefly posted about this here.

Honda call this the Delay Orifice Mechanism. Here's the description from the ESM:

'The delay orifice mechanism improves clutch operation by delaying the slave cylinder release speed when the clutch pedal is suddenly released. The delay orifice mechanism is built into the slave cylinder.'

Allegedly, Honda and many other manufacturers added these valves to prevent transmission component damage due to slowly releasing the pressure in the CSC, but this in turn makes the clutch wear faster. It also sometimes stops aggressive/quick shifting, particularly in lower gears. I removed the delay valve because I felt the clutch was too unpredictable at high revs with quick shifts, and since removing quick shifts have been (mostly) spot on. No more grinding 1st to 2nd.

I used this TSX and this Civic Si thread as references/guides.

mGb1Khr.jpg

CSC location


WmjthUT.jpg

CSC closeup


RmYkQ9o.jpg

CSC removed - you'll need a flare nut spanner for the clutch line: I used this one.


uT5PXYX.jpg

'C' clip removed - I used this set of picks and it was a pain, but after 15 mins I got it out.


pdjiyoL.jpg

This is the delay valve removed. I've kept mine in my parts box just in case.

I then cleaned up all the parts, reinstalled the CSC and clutch line, torqued eveything properly and applied Honda Super Hi Temp Urea Grease where the CSC rod meets the release fork, as well as rubber grease to the rod boot. Finally I bled the clutch line and topped it up with additional Honda DOT 4 fluid. You will need to bleed the line as removal will introduce air.

It's been 2 months now since I completed this mod and all is good. Shifting quickly feels predictable and extremely satisfying, yet regular/slow shifting feels exactly the same - missus didn't even notice :cool:
 
Last edited:
Throttle Body Coolant Bypass

After the CSC valve delete I bypassed the coolant line that routes through the throttle body (TB). I did this by disconnecting the hoses that run into and out of the TB, then connected them to each other using an 8mm brass connector and the existing clips. I then capped the TB ports using these 8mm vacuum caps. Whereas the TB used to be scorching hot after spirited driving and would literally burn you due to the hot coolant running through it, now it is hot to the touch but I easily bearable. Nice cheap mod that shaved 0.1 of a second off my best 0-60 time. I've got a nice flat spot nearby where I can get up to 60 (actual not speedometer). Previous best after replacing the cheap ditch finder tyres was 7.0 sec to 60 following remap by @F6HAD. With this mod I got to 6.9 secs. Not a perfect scientific test I know, but weather and temps were pretty similar between tests.

qzoQXNg.jpg

Completed mod. Blue circle is the coolant lines connected to each other, red circle is the capped TB port that the coolant lines used to run into and out of.
If you decide to do this you will need to bleed and refill the coolant as you will lose some and introduce air to the system.

Throttle Body Space Install

About a week later I installed an AFE Silver Bullet Throttle Body Spacer. As I needed to remove the throttle body I decided to give it a clean as well.

nS3BKZM.jpg


Throttle body removed - just look at all that carbon!


KPQutSP.jpg

Throttle body cleaning from the ESM


Uq1dVry.jpg

Nice and clean.


YMiDLfm.jpg

Throttle position learned value


6stkYpE.jpg

Idle learn procedure
 
Last edited:
xtAj8Op.jpg


Spacer installed. I noticed a slight improvement in throttle response but not sure about the advertised HP/torque gains. I tested it at my usual spot with similar weather/temps and consistenly achieved a 0-60 time of 6.8 seconds. I bought the spacer through eBay from the U.S.A. and for a total cost of £125 including taxes I'm well chuffed!
 
Last edited:
Next up I decided to paint my calipers as the stock silvers were looking a bit tired.

Ekug4jX.jpg


I went with a medium blue and put some vinyl stickers on as well.

sttfPAg.jpg


5DOQEgn.jpg


kP1AvQV.jpg


They are quite subtle in person, which is the way I like it.

TkleCUP.jpg
 
Following on from the calipers I shortly after added wheel spacers. After much measuring and forum hunting, I went with 15mm hub-centric Eibach's on the front and 20mms on the back.

F8GKCgD.jpg


The car is seriously dirty at the moment as I've just come back from a 350 mile round trip and not had the chance to clean.

ohUgM8a.jpg

Front

THdsAg2.jpg

Rear

q2XMzfX.jpg


I'm really pleased with them. I've had them on for over 2 weeks and covered nearly 700 miles across all types of roads. No strange shakes/vibrations and no rubbing at all. The stance of the car is subtley changed for the better in my opinion, particularly the rear wheels as stock they sit really far in. Just look at that difference below:

y2kcHh9.png
 
I forgot to say that I just took delivery of probably one of the last brand new PLM exhaust headers as they haven't made them for a few years now. I emailed NSP in the Netherlands and they just happened to have one in the warehouse. Cost me £280 including shipping and then an additional £60 import fee that I hadn't considered. :oops:
My plan is to install it with the stock catback and see what it's like, but from research it will be probably be quite raspy. Eventually I'll get a new catback installed and have a shop weld in a Vibrant resonator. The TSX lot have successfully got rid of the drone and rasp with this combo. All that is many months of saving away though......
 
Import fees can sting a bit have been done a few times haha good to see some good details on how to do the mods, engine tuning etc goes mostly over my head.

Exterior stuff makes car look cleaner and might be subtle but definitely makes the car look better. More I see that grille the more I like it.

Been thinking about spacers myself just distracted lately but good to know what sizes etc stance looks spot on now.
 
Thanks mate, appreciate it. I’m also considering replacing the crank and alternator pulleys with this underdrive set by Buddy Club.

For my list of exterior mods I’m still planning on copying your headlight de-tango method, as well as fit the type s side skirts and front lip. I’m also toying with the idea of fitting a genuine set of mudguards and spraying them crystal black to match the bodywork. So much to do!

The spacers were easy to fit. Hub-centric is the way to go as no need for new wheel studs. Just take your time and clean all the mating surfaces properly. I also used some medium strength thread locker when fitting the spacers to the hubs, then torqued the spacers to 108nm, same as the wheels. If you’re still running the 18” deltas they will stick out about 5-6mm more than my 17” ones. I think you may just about get away with it. I am incorrect, they are 7.5 inch thick wheels, same as the 17 inch standard ones.
 
Last edited:
Great progress mate.
 
Rhino Ramps Heavy Duty 5 Ton

I’ve only had them 6 months so can’t comment on long term reliability, but I’ve used them about 7 or 8 times. Really strong and sturdy and perfect if you’ve got a job to do that doesn’t need the wheels off e.g. oil change.
 
@Blippi i was wrong about your delta alloys sticking out 5-6mm more. Thought they were 8” thick but I was wrong they are 7.5”, so should fit just like mine.
 
Front brake pads were approaching the limit so I decided to replace them today. I went with EBC greenstuff because all round they seemed to fit the best. Yellowstuff would be best for me but probably not for the missus. Everything went great but unfornuately there’s a fair bit of corrosion to the internal, slotted shims that fit onto the inner pads on both sides. Pics below.

xKBi3IJ.jpg



bBmCnUM.jpg


For now I’ve just covered the areas with a decent amount of M-77, but I’d like to replace them soon. The part number for the shim set (all front 6) is 06455TL0G50, but the other shims are in near perfect condition. Rather than spend £50 on the full set, does anyone know if it’s possible to just get 2 of these slotted ones instead? I can’t find them on online.
 
Whilst I had the wheels off I couldn’t resist putting on one of the deltas a very kind forum member gifted to me at the beginning of this week!

6VSZce2.jpg


You can’t tell in the photo but they do need a fair bit of work, however I’m so happy as I’ve been wanting a set of these since I bought the car, but thought it wouldn’t happen due to them being quite rare! I plan to get them refurbed in the spring/summer. Think I’ll get them acid dipped then powder coated in a gloss gunmetal finish. I considered a refurb similar to the original finish as I really like the look of the diamond cut sections, but I just don’t have confidence in the durability of the finish.
 
I was considering getting the originally diamond cut area's on mine painted silver so that they have the 2 tone look I preferred but hopefully the paint would hold up better than getting them diamond cut again.
 
That’s a good idea. I prefer the 2 tone look as well. It really suits the wheels with the rear 5 twin spokes behind the front 5.
 
Last edited:
Made a couple of modifications this Christmas period. First I installed Acuity’s upgraded shifter linkage bushings.

YMfzAaN.jpg

A6PxL5e.jpg

You can just make out the purple aluminium bushing. Real hard to get a photo in there.

They come as a set of two and are super easy to install. Acuity has install docs and videos on their site as well. Shifting feels slightly more mechanical, and the stick seems to want to go into the right gear. The subtle difference is really satisfying and for me it’s worth the £70 I paid.

I then installed a genuine Mugen aluminium shift knob that I got shipped from the U.S. This was actually more difficult than the bushings as the EX model gear knob isn’t just a simple screw on. In the end though I’m really happy with it.

FcKiibm.jpg
 
Nice mods mate. Happy new year
 
Hondoob said:
I haven't updated this thread in a while, but I've done a few bits since I last posted.

Clutch Slave Cylinder Delay Valve Removal - late August

I briefly posted about this here.

Honda call this the Delay Orifice Mechanism. Here's the description from the ESM:

'The delay orifice mechanism improves clutch operation by delaying the slave cylinder release speed when the clutch pedal is suddenly released. The delay orifice mechanism is built into the slave cylinder.'

Allegedly, Honda and many other manufacturers added these valves to prevent transmission component damage due to slowly releasing the pressure in the CSC, but this in turn makes the clutch wear faster. It also sometimes stops aggressive/quick shifting, particularly in lower gears. I removed the delay valve because I felt the clutch was too unpredictable at high revs with quick shifts, and since removing quick shifts have been (mostly) spot on. No more grinding 1st to 2nd.

I used this TSX and this Civic Si thread as references/guides.

mGb1Khr.jpg

CSC location


WmjthUT.jpg

CSC closeup


RmYkQ9o.jpg

CSC removed - you'll need a flare nut spanner for the clutch line: I used this one.


uT5PXYX.jpg

'C' clip removed - I used this set of picks and it was a pain, but after 15 mins I got it out.


pdjiyoL.jpg

This is the delay valve removed. I've kept mine in my parts box just in case.

I then cleaned up all the parts, reinstalled the CSC and clutch line, torqued eveything properly and applied Honda Super Hi Temp Urea Grease where the CSC rod meets the release fork, as well as rubber grease to the rod boot. Finally I bled the clutch line and topped it up with additional Honda DOT 4 fluid. You will need to bleed the line as removal will introduce air.

It's been 2 months now since I completed this mod and all is good. Shifting quickly feels predictable and extremely satisfying, yet regular/slow shifting feels exactly the same - missus didn't even notice :cool:
Click to expand...
I tried to do this this evening but for the life of me I can't get the cap off the CSC

Am I right in thinking this should come off with pliers, revealing the c clip? Or does the c clip hold it on? (Mine is pretty rotten so it's hard to tell)
 
The c clip holds it on. Gotta scratch away at the rot with a pick to reveal it, then use another pick to lift up the end. Careful though as it will probably going flying. It does take sometime and the more rot there is the longer it will take. Well worth it though as high rpm shifts are much better, but 1-2 you will still have a slight delay. Less than before but still there.

I’ve got an EM2 CMC to fit that I’ll hopefully find the time for in the next few weeks. I’m hopeful that’ll mean all delay is gone.
 
Hondoob said:
The c clip holds it on. Gotta scratch away at the rot with a pick to reveal it, then use another pick to lift up the end. Careful though as it will probably going flying. It does take sometime and the more rot there is the longer it will take. Well worth it though as high rpm shifts are much better, but 1-2 you will still have a slight delay. Less than before but still there.

I’ve got an EM2 CMC to fit that I’ll hopefully find the time for in the next few weeks. I’m hopeful that’ll mean all delay is gone.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that, makes sense it's just basically all one piece now as far as I can see!! Also found this video which shows it a bit more clearly


I'll have another crack at it later, if all else fails I've seen a few people cut out a notch in the side using a Dremel, so I might have to resort to that

What was the part number for the CMC you ordered?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top