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Looking for a 2.4 Auto Tourer

-Rich-

-Rich-

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Location
Rickmansworth
Car
2.4 Tourer Auto
I have been getting some advice about these cars from Adam (Thehole, I think) and I've done some searching but thought I would start a thread for some more opinions.

It will mainly be used around town and I know the auto box won't be as good as a manual but what kind of figures are you guys getting, low 20s? In the last 2 years I've only done 6.5k miles so mpg isn't too big an issue ATM. I currently get 23-25mpg in my Corolla T Sport but on long runs I struggle to hit 30mpg (plus it's a screamer doing 4k rpm at 70!) and from what I've read the 2.4 auto will do better than this? We travel to the East Coast a few times a year, plus trips to see family which is a 120 mile round trip, so it would be nice to get better mpg on these runs.

The common faults I've read about are the tailgate not closing/opening properly and the rear calipers seizing - is there anything else apart from the usual checks I need to look out for?

What are part prices like and are pattern ones ok or should I stick with OEM?

As I'm looking for a 2003-2004 model I think the tax/VED will be £280?

Think that's it - for now! :)
 
Hi
About mpg I don't know but the rest is ok and how you say.
I am pleased with the mpg I have.
I have two accords with automatic transmission and both mpg and the cars are great.
 
Make sure the automatic transmission fluid has been changed with genuine Honda fluid. Makes a huge difference with gear changes I think it's every 70000 miles on an auto box, correct me if I am wrong guys.
 
yes, you are correct, every 60.000 mile must be replaced or 5y with honda genuine transmission auto fluid, else it's ok the car...
 
Thanks for the replies :)

I would probably change the ATF when I get the car if there is nothing in the history about it being done. How much is usually changed as we also have a Honda Civic and that's around half of the total amount. Also can it be done on the driveway or do you need a ramp?

What's the setup for the rear brakes/handbrake - are they on the same caliper, does the handbrake have it's own caliper or is the inside of the disc used as a drum? My car uses the latter and it's a nightmare of a system if I'm honest!
 
There's a guide on how to do it. http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/5852-diy-24-auto-atf-change/
 
I am hoping to look at this car over the weekend, any thoughts - http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201310119231967

Can anyone else tell me what these are like on fuel around town, will I get at least low 20s? Also I ***ume normal 95 is ok and I won't see any benefit from 97/99 RON fuel?
 
Looks tidy. I don't think the exhaust is original. Looks pretty meaty. I don't remember mine looking like that before I got it replaced. Either way, considering how tidy it looks and that the exhaust looks after market, it leans towards it having been a well looked after car.

Check the service history, see what's been done. Given the mileage I'd listen out for rattles and creaks. At this age/mileage you'll start to find various suspension parts such as anti-roll bar links and bushes are worn and knock over bumps and/or heavy breaking. Possible creaking on turning could be ball joints, compliance bushes and/or steering rack tie-rods.

Check the motorised boot works and if it's got Xenon lights, pull the car up near a wall with the lights on and then go and stand in the boot. As the rear of the car rises, look to see if the headlamp beam automatically adjusts itself to compensate.

Otherwise it's the usual. Check body panel lines are straight and even, wheel arch gaps are the same, no rust in places such as wheel arches, around the sunroof etc. Look for water in door sills and in the spare tyre well.

I'm sure others might have suggestions also. I have no experience of the auto box so don't know what to look/listen out for there.
 
the car looks ok, but check to see if it shift effortless and if it does it's ok but still ask when was changed the transmission fluid, take the yellow dip stick an look at the level and color; should be max and color pink.
about mpg in city yes, 20--> you will see depends how your foot is.
2 keys, the sunroof is working, a/c, alarm, windows.
check the tyres all around and the spare one...
rise the lid from power steering bottle and put the finger inside and take it out to see the color and smell.
look if the drive belt was changed and when...
see the air filter, oil filter, oil, pollen filter, battery when was changed
 
Cheers guys, some helpful info there :)

What do you think of the price, it seems to be one of the cheapest I've seen (from a trader) and with 12 months warranty? If I can't find any faults with it do you think I could knock any more off the price? I guess not many people are buying these big engined cars anymore so they may want rid of it. I don't like the fact they add an 'admin fee' to the price.

Stevearcade said:
Check the motorised boot works and if it's got Xenon lights, pull the car up near a wall with the lights on and then go and stand in the boot. As the rear of the car rises, look to see if the headlamp beam automatically adjusts itself to compensate.
Click to expand...

So I take it the tourer has self levelling rear suspension - any known issues with this system?
 
The self levelling headlamps have sensors on the front and rear suspension. Mine aren't working properly and talking to Honda, it would seem there's quite a glut of issues across all their ranges. You'll notice newer Hondas don't have Xenons... I wonder why. Still wasn't an issue until operational self levelling systems became an MOT requirement if your car has Xenons. This is only important with Xenons. If the car's halogen, it's no issue.

In terms of solving the problem, it will likely be a front or rear suspension sensor. They're about £230 for the part. You could probably fit them yourself quite easily.
 
I guess it'll be obvious if it has Xenons - hopefully it won't, I'm not really a fan of them anyway.
 
-Rich- said:
I guess it'll be obvious if it has Xenons - hopefully it won't, I'm not really a fan of them anyway.
Click to expand...
It's a 2.4 Prefacelift. They were fitted as standard.
If you're looking for a 2.4 Auto, they were all exec models, so they'll all have the xenon HIDs.

If anyone's wondering, HIDs were only available on the facelift model with the ADAS pack, but 2.4 facelift wagons, VED, yikes.
 
Cheers, I had better check them carefully then to make sure they are working ok. If they're not could it only be the sensor at fault? The price seems steep though, you must be able to buy pattern ones? I've been having a read about them and it seems to be a common problem with them not working properly.
 
I'd like to think there's cheaper alternatives. Never found any myself, but I still need to look further into it really.
 
Maybe finding out who actually manufacturers the sensor and trying to buy directly from them will be cheaper. After all Honda don't actually make the part, just stick their name on it.

The car I linked to above has just been reduced by £100 so is £1900 now (plus admin fee!), does that sound too cheap now or do you think they just want it gone? I asked about the 12 month warranty and they said it covers the engine and gearbox only.
 
as for the warranty, the engine and gear box on that car could be warrantied for 2 years and not fail. its all the other things that can go wrong, electrical, suspension...
 
did you actually drive that car and check it?


to see if that auto levels drive the car facing a wall when you switch on the lights you should see the beam adjust ever so slightly.
 
I have just been reading some reviews about these cars and I found out they don't actually have a spare wheel but storage instead. What has everyone done about this, do you buy a spare to keep in the boot? I don't really like the idea of just carrying a can of goop in case I get a puncture and it's no good for blowout.

toffee_pie said:
as for the warranty, the engine and gear box on that car could be warrantied for 2 years and not fail. its all the other things that can go wrong, electrical, suspension...
Click to expand...

The rest can be classed as wear and tear though and I don't think most warranties would cover that?

toffee_pie said:
did you actually drive that car and check it?

to see if that auto levels drive the car facing a wall when you switch on the lights you should see the beam adjust ever so slightly.
Click to expand...

I have not seen it yet, I'm hoping to on Saturday. I will be checking the lights out very carefully, thanks :)
 
Also what's the correct way to check the auto gearbox oil, leave the engine running or turn it off when warm and check it within 90 seconds, I think?
 
Now sure about the transmission fluid. As for the spare tyre. Yep, no spare :rolleyes: . I thought no big deal, I've got my can of foam... Then I had a blow out with a 2" gash in the side wall of the tyre. Great! Picked up a spare from someone on here for £25. Basically, a spare 16" alloy or steel wheel from a breakers will fit in the spare tyre well and cost you not a lot. I actually managed to get a space saver, but I've seen pics of some guys here who have full sized wheels in their spare wheel recess.
 
toffee_pie said:
the tourer got no spare? thats new to me.
Click to expand...
They all came with tire repair malarkey. Space saver was optional.

Stevearcade said:
Now sure about the transmission fluid. As for the spare tyre. Yep, no spare :rolleyes: . I thought no big deal, I've got my can of foam... Then I had a blow out with a 2" gash in the side wall of the tyre. Great! Picked up a spare from someone on here for £25. Basically, a spare 16" alloy or steel wheel from a breakers will fit in the spare tyre well and cost you not a lot. I actually managed to get a space saver, but I've seen pics of some guys here who have full sized wheels in their spare wheel recess.
Click to expand...
In the wagon? The full size wheel was standard for 2 litre prefacelift 4 doors (15 inch diameter wheels. The others all have 16 inch), so I'm guessing that the rear diffuser underbody is the same on all of them and they'll all take a full size spare. Even if the boot liner won't sit right.
 
to check the gearbox oil, yes you let the car until the engine warm up, but better is to drive it min and for sure both engine and gearbox oil warm up
than you stop on straight land and check first the gearbox oil then engine oil.
good luck
 
Been doing some more reading and come across another issue people have had with the VSA and it costing about £1600 to fix. Is this a common problem? It would be pointless spending that much money fixing something when the car isn't worth much more.

Stevearcade said:
Now sure about the transmission fluid. As for the spare tyre. Yep, no spare :rolleyes: . I thought no big deal, I've got my can of foam... Then I had a blow out with a 2" gash in the side wall of the tyre. Great! Picked up a spare from someone on here for £25. Basically, a spare 16" alloy or steel wheel from a breakers will fit in the spare tyre well and cost you not a lot. I actually managed to get a space saver, but I've seen pics of some guys here who have full sized wheels in their spare wheel recess.
Click to expand...

So there is a spare wheel well but they left it empty - how tight is that! :lol:

Cris said:
to check the gearbox oil, yes you let the car until the engine warm up, but better is to drive it min and for sure both engine and gearbox oil warm up
than you stop on straight land and check first the gearbox oil then engine oil.
good luck
Click to expand...

Cheers I will do that for the gearbox oil but aren't you meant to check the engine oil when it's cold to get an accurate reading?
 
Indeed, the VSA units tend to be ok. You normally read about them failing on Diesels. Why they're different between petrol and diesel I don't know.

There is a problem that can develop with the brake switch which trips a VSA fault code, but it's a quick, easy and free repair with a little cleaning. Follow this guide if you ever have an issue.
 
tbh, i would expect that car to be very soild, in terms of robustness when you put accord and k24 together it doesn't get much better, of course it needs a good service history too but it should be pretty sound.
 
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