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New brake pedal switch

davemazo

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Location
Ormskirk, Lancs
Car
Skoda Superb Estate
I`ve had to replace my brake pedal switch. It`s easy enough but just thought I`d share my experiences.

First of all though a bit of background as to why.

Some time ago I fitted a reverse camera and LED bulbs all round to my tourer. Everything worked fine for a while until I started to get a flashing glow plug light and "check system" on the dash display. This would be intermittent, it would usually come on when I engaged reverse, stay on for a couple of days and then clear itself for a few days but come back on a few days later when I engaged reverse again.
I disconnected the camera, thinking that would cure it but it didn`t. For the first day after i disconnected it the satnav screen would go to night colours whenever I braked and back to daytime when I took my foot off the brake. This only happened for a day though. Despite it being the glow plug light flashing the car ran perfectly.
Also whenever I fitted an LED to the reverse light with camera connected the satnav screen would look like this when I engaged reverse:-

IMAG0061.jpg


A diagnostics check at Holdcroft threw up a fault with the brake pedal switch and a fault with the ECU. So going with the cheaper option first I bought a brake switch from my local dealer and fitted it today, here are some pics and a how to.

First thing to do is remove the plastic panel underneath the dash which hides all the wiring and other gubbins. Its easier if you remove the lower dash which houses the VSA, headlight adjuster and tourer tailgate switches. You only have to remove one screw and release the tight clips which hold it all on. This is the one screw:-

P1050257.jpg


Once this is pulled back a bit it makes it easier to remove three more clips running along the edge closest to the drivers seat, it should the just pull out. This is a picture of the panel removed showing the clips:-

P1050251.jpg


Then you can see the brake switch, it`s the grey one pointing downwards:-

P1050252.jpg


To remove it I just had to twist it to the right (I think). It slides out so you can disconnect it. Fitting the new one is easy, just push it in the hole, twist to the left and reconnect it.
This is what a new £38 brake switch looks like:-

P1050248.jpg


It`s too early to say yet whether it`s fixed the problem as the warning light had gone out on its own prior to fitting the switch and despite engaging reverse a few times it hasn`t come back on yet.
So thats it I told you it was easy. One word of warning though don`t do what I did and take out the old switch and put it down next to the new one to go in and answer the phone, it`s very difficult to tell which is the new one apart from a slight wearing of the push button at the end of the switch, what a plank.
One other thing there must be a difference in switches between cars with satnav and those without. When I ordered it I was asked if I had satnav. When I told the dealer what was happening to the satnav screen when I braked he said "oh yes thats right it will do that". Don`t know if he was making it up or not.
 
excellent how to thanks hope it does cure your problem for you

you know when its common problem as the dealer has things like this in stock its not the normal run of the mill stock item is it?
 
Great write up Dave, really hope this cures the issue for you - keep us posted mate.
 
Fingers crossed for you Dave.

One word of warning though don`t do what I did and take out the old switch and put it down next to the new one to go in and answer the phone, it`s very difficult to tell which is the new one apart from a slight wearing of the push button at the end of the switch,/
Great tip, why do people ring at these awkward moments, been there too ! :ph34r:


did you take the reverse camera out or are you waiting to see if the problem shows itself again?
 
Great write up Dave i hope this solves the problem let us no how it goes.
 
Nice one Dave Ive got my fingers crossed this solves the problem thats been a pain in the neck for you.
 
did you take the reverse camera out or are you waiting to see if the problem shows itself again?

No the camera is still in but disconnected. I`ll hang on a bit and see if the problem comes back again before I reconnect it.
 
Cheers for that Dave hope it's cured the problem for you. Just a small thing you said about getting the old and the new switch mixed up !! is it the photographs or is one grey and the other black :D
 
Cheers for that Dave hope it's cured the problem for you. Just a small thing you said about getting the old and the new switch mixed up !! is it the photographs or is one grey and the other black :D

It`s just down to the lighting. They are both identical in colour ie black
 
Fingers crossed this sorts the problem out.
 
Well it`s official, when it comes to tinkering with cars I am a first class top of the range plonker. I went out in the car last night to visit a mate about 2 miles away, backed out of the drive and guess what the warning light immediately flashed up again so it hasn`t cured the problem, but it gets worse. I set off down the road and everything was fine The closer I got to my mates the brake pedal was getting harder and the brakes were gradually applying themselves so I turned around and made for home but it got to the point where I couldn`t get out of first gear without the car stopping, the brakes were jammed on solid.
It was dark, chucking it down and I was on unlit country roads so I couldn`t stop and investigate so I had to carry on home in first gear. By this time the dash had lit up like a christmas tree, the VSA light had now come on as well, and because of the smell I knew the pads were rapidly wearing down to the metal.
I made it home and got out to investigate, smoke was pouring from the wheels, the discs were red hot and I was feeling a little bit fed up so I left it to cool down and went to the pub.
First thing I looked at this morning when my hangover had subsided a bit was obviously the brake switch, it was then I realised that I had pushed it in too far which was obviously causing it to push down on the brake pedal and each time I braked the pedal stayed down further and further so all I had to do was take it out and fit it again so the plunger was just pushing up against the brake pedal. At least the car was now driveable.
I took it to a mate who has an expensive Snap on code reader to give me the bad news. Four codes with errors showed up:-

1] Battery voltage low
2] 66-1 VSA module error
3] Brake fluid low
4] Another error to do with the VSA that I can`t remember

We checked the brakes and the pads were obviously worn down to nothing and the discs were scored badly so £326 later I have new discs, pads and brake fluid ready to be fitted by him on Monday.

On the way home again the VSA light and glow plug lights went out on their own so I`m hoping no serious damage has been done to the VSA but then again if the warning light comes on again I might be elligible for a new one under the recent TSB about VSA modules being faulty.

So thats it, the only thing I`m ever doing to my car in future is filling it up with diesel and even then only in the presence of a grown up. Oh and don`t forget after all that the new brake switch didn`t fix the original problem so back to square one but at least I know I`ll have good brakes.
 
Oh Mate :rolleyes: :lol: :(

I did say when we met that I don't think it's the brake switch, only because we know the wiring is multiplexed - obviously when you spliced into the reverse light, you've disrupted something else.

66-1 is a bad error to get, so I'm glad the light went out on it's own. The unit was probably confused..

Can you get the wiring checked by a decent autoelectrician? Maybe when you restored it, you've missed something?
 
I know Fahad but when you get a proper Honda diagnostics check telling you the brake switch is faulty what are you supposed to do.

The camera is now completely disconnected and I`ve also pulled the cable from the back of the dvd drive as well so I`ll see how it goes. I`ll run it like that for a while and if that hasn`t helped I`ll then try removing the LEDs one by one, starting with the brake bulbs, and see if that helps.

I wanted to do the brakes anyway so I`m not too upset about that but it has come at the wrong time as I`m driving to Brittany on Tuesday.
 
Dave,

So sorry to hear of the bad news and double bad news, just one of those things that happens sometimes and in the circumstances / situation you just cannot think straight to rectify it, try not to beat yourself up about it.

Really hope the dreaded 66-1 has gone away.

I take it the camera is totally disconnected from the wire you spliced and the spliced wire all re-joined together.

If it is any consolation, at least when your mate put diagnostics on it didn't come up with a faulty brake switch.
 
Dave,

If it is any consolation, at least when your mate put diagnostics on it didn't come up with a faulty brake switch.

I know, so its not all bad news then :rolleyes:

And yes the reverse camera is no more and spliced wires all safely taped up.
 
In the words of swiper the fox...............ohhhhhhhhhhh mannnnnnnnnnnnnn

Feel so sorry for you mate what a bad bit of luck and easy done as well.

One thing I never fiddle too much with is the wiring, I just dont know enough about auto electrics to bail my butt out if it all fubars.
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dora_the_Explorer#Swiper_the_Fox
 
Gosh, sounds like a nightmare pal. I really hope it all gets sorted quickly
 
^thanks faddy for coming to the rescue of my strange sense of humor ;)
 
^^ Nah I have all this to come :) Just getting myself prepared.
 
Errors went away though CJ, must be related to the seized brakes as a result of incorrect brake switch installation.. I think the modulator unit was probably in over drive and got confused :)
 
Thanks CJ I know about the TSB for the VSA which is why I`m not overly concerned about the whole thing anymore. I would have needed new pads and discs soon anyway so come Monday it will all be sorted with new brake fluid as well.

As for the VSA thing as soon as the light flashed up it was the first thing that crossed my mind that it may have done me a favour but like I said it has cleared itself.
I was a bit concerned that I had damaged or melted the sensors rather than the VSA module

Is it worth getting all the fault codes cleared. If the VSA is damaged will it come back on again
 
Does anybody know if I could have done some damage to components other than the brakes. I`m thinking drive shafts, wheel bearings, clutch etc. New Honda OEM discs and pads have now been fitted all round along with 2 new Bridgestone Potenzas on the front (thats another story)

The reason I ask is, I`ve just got back from a week in Brittany and while there I noticed a loud humming, roaring noise. It`s hard to explain but it sounds like what I imagine brakes binding on discs would sound like. It is only noticeable when I`m driving on a really smooth road, normal roads seem to drown out the noise and it seems to be very noticeable at speed 70/80mph. While there I jacked all 4 wheels up and the rears spin freely, the fronts spin but aren`t as free. I`ve since been told that this is because the fronts are turning the drive shafts as well so will be a bit stiffer (makes sense to me) While it was jacked up I also checked for any play in the wheel bearings using the standard rocking of the wheel method and they were rock solid

I`m not sure if I`m imagining it but it also feels like the car is being held back, as if the brakes are binding but I`m sure they are not, like I said. But it does seem to be using more fuel. On the trip down to Portsmouth I used about half a tank of fuel, whereas for the drive back there was about a quarter of a tank left. I can`t be 100% sure about the fuel as there are so many variables, French supermarket fuel instead of VPD, a boot full of wine and beer doesn`t help I suppose and coming back I was able to do a constant 70/80mph all the way (it was at night)

I`m still getting the noise over here but again I can only hear it only on really smooth roads. I don`t think its road noise from the new tyres either it sounds more mechanical if you know what I mean.

I`ve spoken to the mechanic who did the brakes and he has suggested that the grease in the bearings may have melted or boiled away. Don`t forget all four discs glowed red hot with the heat generated when I initially caused the problem. He can`t be sure until he can take it for a test drive.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Anyone know how much wheel bearings are B) :) :eek:

Oh and by the way I think I may have found what the problem was that caused all of this. I don`t think it was the switch at all. I removed the LED stop/tail bulbs and put the originals back and the warning light problem seems to have gone away.
 
I`m still getting the noise over here but again I can only hear it only on really smooth roads. I don`t think its road noise from the new tyres either it sounds more mechanical if you know what I mean.

I`ve spoken to the mechanic who did the brakes and he has suggested that the grease in the bearings may have melted or boiled away. Don`t forget all four discs glowed red hot with the heat generated when I initially caused the problem. He can`t be sure until he can take it for a test drive.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Anyone know how much wheel bearings are :lol: ;) :eek:

I think the bearing are most likely as what you decribe is similar to the drone bearings can make. As you mention if it was glowing red the grease would have heated up well beyond it operating limits.

I dont know how much bearings are, best give HH a shout for a price so you know what your looking at.

Also who would have thought a few leds could have caused such a fuss hey mate :lol:
 
Dave, the bearing is in a sealed hub which is seperate unit - It's plausible, but I think the likely cause is that your pedal switch is still incorrectly adjusted and your brakes are binding every so slightly.

How 'hot' are they when you stop after a long drive?
 
It`s not the brake pedal switch Fahad. I took it out altogether and drove the car a few miles and still got the noise. The discs are hot after a long drive, the fronts more so but not so hot that I can`t keep the back of my hand on them for a second or two.
 
If your bearings are shot, test them by jacking the car up and spinning the wheel by hand - as the wheel spins, place your hand on the wing above it and feel for any vibration.
 
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