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p1065

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pawel1

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Location
Rugby
Car
Accord 7 I-CTDi
Hi all!

I know that was on forum many, many times but cant find solution for this.

Car goes to limp mode, coil light start flashing after getting more than 3k rev sometime starting at 2k.
there is no problem with start, cold or hot no jumping weird sounds etc. my mechanic told me there is code p1065 which is low fuel pressure.
fuel filter was replaced, bosh from honda. i've replaced copper washer(bought in honda) under injectors (rocker gasket was leaking, changed as well)
but yesterday i've decide to bleed fuel filter again, was doing this 4 times!
was ok for 5 miles and started again.
what do you think, can be problem with low pressure from pump to filter? or injectors itself?

many thanks!
 
Not injectors... if they were leaking this much you've have starting problems (fuel pump wouldn't be able to raise the rail pressure to 200bar while cranking).

It's possibly a worn fuel pump (especially if there's ever been petrol in the tank) or a blocked/kinked low-pressure fuel pipe?

Not worth continually bleeding the fuel system - even if some air is left in the fuel filter or pipework it'll be sucked out once the engine is running. But if air does keep getting in then this would point to a possible leak in the fuel line from the tank to the filter ***embly (but this would then allow the fuel to drain back to the tank and usually causes a cold-starting problem).

It would be useful to connect a real-time OBD2 reader and monitor the rail pressure under driving conditions.

Have you recently had a remap?
 
Sounds like you are dragging air in, as Jon says. If the filter was/has been changed check the rubber connections that fit onto it, could be that the clips are not sitting properly, also I know this will sound a bit daft but has the filter been fitted correctly? i.e the "in" at the "in" and the "out" at the "out". I have read that the priming bulb must be squeezed at least 40 times to get the thing hard, also when I do a filter change I do not bleed the filter housing, Just fit and squeeze.
 
unfortunately i don't have access to scanner/reader I just get back from local garage where i was asking about this and bloke told me that only honda can read real-time rail pressure?! car is not remapped. I think filter is fitted correctly. But old one was crossman make?! not bosh. I fit this two pipe same as old (short hose to the right and long to left, filter is fitted with bleed bolt far from engine). what's the symptom have worn out fuel pump?
What can be cost to replace fuel pump?
 
If you have a smart phone or a tablet you can download the Torque app. You then need a eobd reader, preferably Bluetooth if you have an Android operating system on your device. Cost approximately £10
This will allow you to read and reset any error codes and also monitor the fuel rail pressure that the garage thinks only Honda can do.

I can say my previous Accord had the fuel filter fitted with the inlet and outlet pipes on the wrong ports and showed no faults or symptoms.

It might also be worth checking your egr valve and imrc runners are free to move.
 
Number 2 (The Honda Diagnostic System) would be a lot more useful... it can run interactive tests to ***ess the functioning of things like EGR and IMRC. But it does cost a lot more! I've seen HDS for a lot less on eBay, as low as £85.
 
aye but that one on ebay is the latest spec, it includes the usb-to-rs232 lead, it has 14-day return, and it's a uk based seller (Sheffied)

if I were buying an HDS again, that one would be a better buy than an older £85 one from Hong Kong

mind you, £130 is a lot of money for Pawel to splash out when an OBD reader might provide enough info.

and if an HDS was required he could always pop up to Fahad in Leeds
 
Good morning and thanks guys for reply. And I decide to go for cheap reader, if he can provide information what's happening with my car will be good enough as probably I will be needed some extra cash for repair. About my problem, I've spotted yesterday, that this fault come back when engine is hot. This not starting straight away from start, roughly after 5 miles?! Reader will be tomorrow, but in the meantime if someone will be have any idea "what to check/try" please let me know ;-)
 
Pressure relief valve.
 
Hi.

Today collected obdii reader, i have on my phone app torque pro. When was running some realtime inf. on fuel rail pressure gauge i had max 22k psi and stable 14k psi (1516 bar and 965 bar) thats correct? i've never used this app before so if some one have any advice how to set this app will be great :)

F6HAD said:
Pressure relief valve.
Click to expand...
do you mean this:
P1020598_zps3f44e629.jpg


image is from this post, http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/111264-how-diagnose-replace-faulty-over-pressure-relief-valve-2006-2-2-ctdi.html

should try use this way from link above?
 
That picture is the relevant pressure relief valve.

That Civinfo link is a great guide to diagnosing potential problems with this valve... I've posted on it myself a few times over the last year or so and it has helped many diesel Civic owners with starting problems. Actually your fuel rail pressures are pretty good, 1600 Bar is the rated maximum and you're getting fairly close to that.
 
And i'm after some checks on my car.

I've check pressure relief valve, no leaks from.
here is the photo of my valve:

209kjf4.jpg


Have question, whether the fuel pressure sensor may be faulty?
i have photo of my one, looks really dirty where screws in to the fuel rail.

qrchzc.jpg


And one more, i've spotted that this solenoid? (red arrow on photo) is really noisy, whistling all the time even if i switch off engine, should be like that?
jr90rt.jpg


P.s.

I was running my car and observe fuel rail pressure with obd reader i've spotted that before car goes to limp mode pressure is dropped to -340psi and after second goes to ~18000 psi and coil start flashing. That can be fault of reader?
 
I can't see the pics in your latest post.

I wouldn't think those readings are the fault of the reader... if they were the car wouldn't go into limp mode. A negative reading probably indicates a faulty rail pressure sensor (passenger end of rail) or the connection.
 
Pics OK for me now.

If it is the sensor, then I don't think it'll respond to cleaning... the fuel in the rail is pretty clean and any contaminants wouldn't get much chance to accumulate.

Buying a secondhand rail is probably the best option. I bought one when I thought my pressure relief valve was playing up and paid £70 + delivery. Make sure the Honda/Bosch part numbers are the same as yours, as there were a few minor changes to the injection system during the production run.

But check all the connections first to avoid wasting money!
 
Hello again after while.

From few days my car have weird problem, won't start, crank but nothing happened looks like don't get fuel. Today i've replaced fuel rail, vent the fuel system, car works slightly better now, but with starting nothing help. now i need to start my car manually (pushing) and his starting after one meter without any problem. when i was checking all connections i've spotted something, i have diesel in pump regulator, electrical connection (red arrow on photo). how this could happen? that's mean, some oring seals gone?
here is photo(from ebay)
2im2bed.jpg
 
I have never seen diesel come out there. There are some 'o'-rings on that solenoid regulator, maybe they are damaged?

Or maybe some diesel got flicked that way when you replaced the rail?
 
Sorry, but I don't know the O-ring sizes, but they are easy to access and replace. That is an old photo of my replaced solenoid regulator, which I no longer have. The kit looks like it should have all the O-rings you might need, but it may be a major job to fit them all!

I can't explain the shaking above 2500 RPM. I think you need to take the car to someone with a Honda Diagnostic System for some tests, if replacing the fuel pump seals doesn't help.
 
Hi I would like to update post.
Unfortunately I sold my car because of this problem, but new owner fix it... injector no.3 was damaged he doesn't write what was with him but injector swap helps and car is running nice and smooth.

I would like to thanks to those people who tried to help me on this forum!

I will be have some bits for sale. I will post this in classified if I can.

Again many thanks!
 
Hi guys , got the same problem and I'm really worried about my car. It's an Accord 2004 2.2 Exec iCDTi about 135k miles on the clocks. It was driving perfectly fine till yesterday when I wanted to accelerate quickly to escape from the roundabout. The car slowed down as I reved above 3k rpm and the coil light started blinking. Since then limp mode and engine limited to 2k rpm only. Re-starting the engine is not resolving the problem. Maybe it is a coincidence but it started the next day after I decided to tank for the first time a good fuel from shell. Normally I was tanking at tesco, sainsburys etc - it was perfectly fine. I never drive low on fuel- always go full if my fuel level is around 1/4 of a tank. I've got pretty decent scanner and the only fault that it detects is p1065 which is " fuel pressure lower than expected". I own that car since 1,5 years and never changed fuel filter myself and don't know when or if that's been done before. It's a genuine bosh at the moment. I know that's the first thing to start from and I'm booked at Honda for tomorrow to have this done as it's to difficult for me (to much messing around, cold outside). I don't have much money therefore I can't afford for more repairs by them. If I erase that p1065 car is not in a limp mode any more and drives fine but as soon as the engine is on the load let's say 3rd gear , and I'm flooring it as soon as RPM reaches around 3k it slows down and goes into limp mode again. If I'm driving up to 2.5k rpm even 60miles/h it drives fine. It starts perfectly , no problems whatsoever - doesn't mater if it's cold or hot . Even after being left for 2 days untouched it started straight away. I wanted to check the pressure on fuel pump so here it how it goes: Car parked , leg of the pedal around 30.000 kpa which I believe is around 300bar. If I rev it up to 4k-5k rpm while still parked rpm's are not dropping! (no choking) and the pressure goes up to 100.000kpa (1000bar). If I'm driving and put the load on the engine it goes even higher 130.000kpa (1300bar) but... if the engine is on load let's say 3rd gear pedal full on the floor at around 3k rpm the pressure drasticly drops to 14.000 kpa (140 bar) and I got limp mode if i'll keep it for longer (2-3 sec) like that. I pray this to be a filter as the only error I got is p1065 but after reading all this I'm loosing my hope :(( . The relief valve, or solenoid on fuel pump I will be probably able changing myself but if that's gonna be injectors like in pawel's case or other things I will be £$$^££. Also I'm wondering if it's worth checking the fuel tank - that thing that sucks in the fuel from the bottom of a tank? I wanna prepare myself as I need my car to get to work. Any advice guys? Please share your opinion on my case. Thank you in advance

PS. Maybe the fuel pump would go higher to the desired 1600bar but my issue is not allowing the engine to go higher? Don't know...
 
It's your fuel filter.

If changing it with a genuine Honda item doesn't resolve it, then please report back.
 
You're bringing my hope back F6HAD, so I'll hold on on buying another fuel rail with sensor &valve. Thanks, will report back after fuel filter change!
 
Hi again I'm after fuel filter change. Thankfully it looks like it fixed my problem! Honda charged me for that job £105 (part+labor) As I couldn't find anywhere fuel pump pressure readings for reference I will pass mine to help you guys and at least give reference points.
In your tester you're looking for FRP(fuel rail pressure) mine was in kPa , 100.000kPa=1000bar, this are just approximates as the pressure depends from speed/engine load/ rpm's and it constantly changes very quickly!
So here is how it goes:
-Car parked, neutral, foot off the pedal: between 280-300 bar (28.000-30.000kpa),pretty constant
-car parked, neutral, 3k RPM , around 1000bar
-Driving, 3rd gear , 30mph, no accelerating,1,5k rpm, around 600bar,
-When accelerating gently from 1st 2nd gear the pressure goes up to 1100-1300bar,
-Hardcore accelerating ,engine under load, over 3,5k rpm and you're looking to get around the maximum pressure of 1500-1600bar,
Normal driving 5gear around 60mph,1,5k rmp, no accelerating , driving on a flat road between 500-700bar.
These are just rough measurements just for the reference as it depends from many factors and changes rapidly.
Thanks
 
Told ya.

Thanks for sharing those reference points.
 
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