First of all this is covered in the manual pm me if you need a copy.
The other thing i will say is that the right tools make the job 10x or more simpler...i have heard some people fashioning their own wind back tools or funny ways to remove the disc mounting screws etc etc......what you're really doing is asking for trouble!
TOOLS NEEDED
-----------------
Jack and stands ofcourse!!!
For pads:
BRAKE CLEANER(not in pic), 14mm & 17mm spanner, copper grease, caliper wind back tool(I got mine from halfords), ratchet, sockets (10mm, 14mm &17mm), pliers and 7mm hex bit (i used mine on a ratchet to get extra leverage)..oh WIRE BRUSH..forgot that in pic..maybe a torque wrench as well
Extra bits needed for discs:
Long 17mm spanner or a breaker bar with 17mm bit, impact driver with number 3 cross bit and BIG hammer....in the manual it says you need two bolts to remove the disc my discs didn't need them as they came off quite easily
I didn't take any pics...I hope someone who does it again will remember and post here to help other members.
FRONT PADS:
---------------
REMOVAL
- remove the two rubber pads behind the calipers which covers the two hex bolts (sometimes you may find the covers missing..get them replaced)
- take of the spring retaining the front part of the caliper...do this by pulling both parts that are hooked into the caliper with the pliers..keep these safe you need them on reasembly.
- take off the two hex bolts at the back...pull them out enough to clear the front part of the calier of take them off all together...maybe give them a clean.
- take off the two 10mm bolts holding the brake line to the knuckle/hub ***embly.
- Now you have to wiggle the front part of the caliper off ...give it a GOOD wiggle side to side to brake loose any contact between the caliper
and pads. Move the caliper up and out of the way and secure it to the strut.
- take out the two pads and check disc..if you find the disc heavily scored then i would change discs at the same time..if you do this then replace the old pads and put on new pads once you have the discs as well.
- give EVERYTHING a good clean with the brake cleaner and wire brush any areas which come into contact with the pads to prevent binding.
REASSEMBLY
- take off the brake fluid cap...maybe leave it on but open. use the caliper wind back tool to wind back the piston..the front pads don't needs
winding more like spreading...KEEP AN EYE on the brake fluid level when doing this!!
- coat the areas of the pad which touch the caliper with copper grease......again DON'T go crazy with how much you apply!!...less is more here!!
- then reassemble everything and toque the bolts back to spec....DON'T go crazy with those hex bolts! they only require as much torque as can
be applied with the size of the key....average 7mm hex key length is about 10cm long (for those who like torque specs it's around 30Nm)
- TIGHTEN THE BRAKE FLUID CAP
- attach the brake line back to the knuckle - only needs 12Nm on those bolts
- TIP - when trying to replace the spring.....doing one side of the hook is easy..to get the other bit of the 'hook' in....DON'T push the spring around the caplier before trying to hook it in the hole!...you'll know what i mean........hook the spring into thr hole FIRST, BEFORE using the pliers to push the spring behind the caliper...all will be clear when you do it!
REAR PADS:
--------------
REMOVAL
- top caliper is held on by 2 bolts (14mm i think!?!). if you are just changing pads you need to remove the bottom bolt but just loosen the top so that the caliper can pivot.
- you may need to remove the brake line mounting to give you more play (2 10mm bolts)
- clean everything etc. as above
REASSEMBLY
- the rear caliper has to be wound back in and can't be simply PUSHED back.
- open the brake fluid cap...and engage to two hooks of the caliper wind back piston with the two notches of the caliper piston (there are diferent caliper wind back tools out there! make sure you get one which fits Hondas!!)
here is the piston wind back tool on the caliper
This is how the notches should be in the caliper, note they need to be horizontal with the caliper for the pin at the back of the pad to fit in
DISCS - FRONT and REAR:
---------------------------
REMOVAL
- after you got the pads out ..you need to take the caliper bracket off the knuckle ***embly...look behind the caliper bracket and you'll see two bolts (17mm) attaching it to the knuckle..remove these...you'll probably need your breaker bar here.
NOTE FOR REAR CALIPER: there are two metal washers..make sure these are back there when you reinstall.
- Use the impact driver to remove the two screws holding the disc to the hub....YOU DO NOT want to round these off....not using an impact driver is asking for trouble here!
- Once the screws are off the disc should come off...if you're replacing the disc just give it a light tap on the back with a hammer..mine is 4lb for reference!...or you could use the two bolt method (there are two tapped threads in the disc for this purpose).....hammer is a LOT quicker though!
here is the disc off
REASSEMBLY
- CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! the hub to disc mounting surface....degrease the disc with brake cleaning fluid etc....even use a bit of sand paper to remove the surface rust on the hub.....it is VERY IMPORTANT! Don't do this and you may find yourself doing this all over again when you find you get brake pulsation due to uneven disc wear.
Here is a pic of what you want to achieve (best be clean than sorry )
- Give the discs a good cleaning to get rid of any residual storage oil
- install the disc and the two screws (ONLY as tight as you can do them with a screwdriver or you're asking for trouble later)....these screws are to aid reassembly....the wheel bolts are what keep the disc on the hub!...maybe add a bit of copper grease to the hub/disc mounting surface
- install the caliper bracket (Front 108NM and the rear 79Nm)
- reinstall caliper and pads.
Well that it really.....a lot of words for what is a simple job! If you not had monkeys around the brakes who have wayyyyyyyyyy overtightened the bolts etc you are in for a breeze...once you've done something like this once you'll wonder why you pay hundreds £££ for someone else to do it!
The other thing i will say is that the right tools make the job 10x or more simpler...i have heard some people fashioning their own wind back tools or funny ways to remove the disc mounting screws etc etc......what you're really doing is asking for trouble!
TOOLS NEEDED
-----------------
Jack and stands ofcourse!!!
For pads:
BRAKE CLEANER(not in pic), 14mm & 17mm spanner, copper grease, caliper wind back tool(I got mine from halfords), ratchet, sockets (10mm, 14mm &17mm), pliers and 7mm hex bit (i used mine on a ratchet to get extra leverage)..oh WIRE BRUSH..forgot that in pic..maybe a torque wrench as well
Extra bits needed for discs:
Long 17mm spanner or a breaker bar with 17mm bit, impact driver with number 3 cross bit and BIG hammer....in the manual it says you need two bolts to remove the disc my discs didn't need them as they came off quite easily
I didn't take any pics...I hope someone who does it again will remember and post here to help other members.
FRONT PADS:
---------------
REMOVAL
- remove the two rubber pads behind the calipers which covers the two hex bolts (sometimes you may find the covers missing..get them replaced)
- take of the spring retaining the front part of the caliper...do this by pulling both parts that are hooked into the caliper with the pliers..keep these safe you need them on reasembly.
- take off the two hex bolts at the back...pull them out enough to clear the front part of the calier of take them off all together...maybe give them a clean.
- take off the two 10mm bolts holding the brake line to the knuckle/hub ***embly.
- Now you have to wiggle the front part of the caliper off ...give it a GOOD wiggle side to side to brake loose any contact between the caliper
and pads. Move the caliper up and out of the way and secure it to the strut.
- take out the two pads and check disc..if you find the disc heavily scored then i would change discs at the same time..if you do this then replace the old pads and put on new pads once you have the discs as well.
- give EVERYTHING a good clean with the brake cleaner and wire brush any areas which come into contact with the pads to prevent binding.
REASSEMBLY
- take off the brake fluid cap...maybe leave it on but open. use the caliper wind back tool to wind back the piston..the front pads don't needs
winding more like spreading...KEEP AN EYE on the brake fluid level when doing this!!
- coat the areas of the pad which touch the caliper with copper grease......again DON'T go crazy with how much you apply!!...less is more here!!
- then reassemble everything and toque the bolts back to spec....DON'T go crazy with those hex bolts! they only require as much torque as can
be applied with the size of the key....average 7mm hex key length is about 10cm long (for those who like torque specs it's around 30Nm)
- TIGHTEN THE BRAKE FLUID CAP
- attach the brake line back to the knuckle - only needs 12Nm on those bolts
- TIP - when trying to replace the spring.....doing one side of the hook is easy..to get the other bit of the 'hook' in....DON'T push the spring around the caplier before trying to hook it in the hole!...you'll know what i mean........hook the spring into thr hole FIRST, BEFORE using the pliers to push the spring behind the caliper...all will be clear when you do it!
REAR PADS:
--------------
REMOVAL
- top caliper is held on by 2 bolts (14mm i think!?!). if you are just changing pads you need to remove the bottom bolt but just loosen the top so that the caliper can pivot.
- you may need to remove the brake line mounting to give you more play (2 10mm bolts)
- clean everything etc. as above
REASSEMBLY
- the rear caliper has to be wound back in and can't be simply PUSHED back.
- open the brake fluid cap...and engage to two hooks of the caliper wind back piston with the two notches of the caliper piston (there are diferent caliper wind back tools out there! make sure you get one which fits Hondas!!)
here is the piston wind back tool on the caliper
This is how the notches should be in the caliper, note they need to be horizontal with the caliper for the pin at the back of the pad to fit in
DISCS - FRONT and REAR:
---------------------------
REMOVAL
- after you got the pads out ..you need to take the caliper bracket off the knuckle ***embly...look behind the caliper bracket and you'll see two bolts (17mm) attaching it to the knuckle..remove these...you'll probably need your breaker bar here.
NOTE FOR REAR CALIPER: there are two metal washers..make sure these are back there when you reinstall.
- Use the impact driver to remove the two screws holding the disc to the hub....YOU DO NOT want to round these off....not using an impact driver is asking for trouble here!
- Once the screws are off the disc should come off...if you're replacing the disc just give it a light tap on the back with a hammer..mine is 4lb for reference!...or you could use the two bolt method (there are two tapped threads in the disc for this purpose).....hammer is a LOT quicker though!
here is the disc off
REASSEMBLY
- CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN! the hub to disc mounting surface....degrease the disc with brake cleaning fluid etc....even use a bit of sand paper to remove the surface rust on the hub.....it is VERY IMPORTANT! Don't do this and you may find yourself doing this all over again when you find you get brake pulsation due to uneven disc wear.
Here is a pic of what you want to achieve (best be clean than sorry )
- Give the discs a good cleaning to get rid of any residual storage oil
- install the disc and the two screws (ONLY as tight as you can do them with a screwdriver or you're asking for trouble later)....these screws are to aid reassembly....the wheel bolts are what keep the disc on the hub!...maybe add a bit of copper grease to the hub/disc mounting surface
- install the caliper bracket (Front 108NM and the rear 79Nm)
- reinstall caliper and pads.
Well that it really.....a lot of words for what is a simple job! If you not had monkeys around the brakes who have wayyyyyyyyyy overtightened the bolts etc you are in for a breeze...once you've done something like this once you'll wonder why you pay hundreds £££ for someone else to do it!