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I’ve had some good results with liqui moly additives in other vehicles, worth a shot but if the ATF is due I would do that first.

I would also check and reset your valve clearances on this engine.

Yep, Cox are a Honda main dealer. Be careful on eBay, plenty of fake plugs going about.

Yes very easy on this engine. Use genuine Honda plugs

Thank you, great to meet you. Glad to hear she’s running well.

I thought the same - peel back the wiring loom and see if it’s been previously spliced into somewhere. I removed the towbar from our 8th gen recently and was very careful to remove each connection and preserve the integrity of each cable.

That’s your actuator, it controls the variable vanes on the turbo.

Not had it done, but very intrigued myself. I’ve been contemplating it for my classic Saab 900. Do share your experience if you have it done.

No worries, hope she’s driving well. I’m not aware of any modulator issues that would cause this. Any malfunctions with the modulator like solenoid failures would trigger an error.. I know you think that the calliper is fine but it’s still worth grabbing another one (even used) and swapping...

I would personally replace the caliper and carrier. Have you ensured your slider pins are clean and smooth? The piston may be fine but if the pins aren’t moving properly then you’ll still get binding.

What is the issue you’re trying to chase? I notice multiple threads from you recently. Yes it’s advisable to disconnect the battery overnight to reset basic adaptations.

Did you get any warning lights at all? Any flashing glow plug light for example? Did the vsa light appear even momentarily? I would still plug in to retrieve any codes, but near total loss of throttle on these is nearly always down to an induction problem, such as stuck egr, split/disconnected...

Yes

if you’ve tried replacing the solenoid and cleaning the screens then I would say it’s time for a new gearbox.. or just live with it

Good luck with it. Sorry to hear about your troubles.

I’ve had a few customers convert to solid flywheel, it’s definitely available. It ruins the car in my opinion, you lose the smoothness and it can become snatchy on gear changes.

Yeah you need a proper lambda socket removal tool otherwise you’ll damage the lambda and/or the heat shield. Like I said previously, easiest way to tell is to just smell around the battery area with the engine idling. If you can’t smell anything it’s most likely fine.

Yep that’s the one.

The pipe is under the front exhaust heatshield, connected to the manifold and runs along the passenger side of the block back to the egr at the rear of the engine. With the engine running, have a sniff around the battery area. If you can smell fumes it’s likely that. The other thing to check for...

Even a quick google search will tell you the same thing I did. If you can remove your eps module and get the part number off it, I would find a used one or send yours off for repair to any ecu repair company...