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Would be daft to install a used boot by itself, but there's nothing stopping you checking boot condition before putting a used driveshaft onto your car. Given time, you're as well cleaning out the joint and re-greasing it as well. The boots that are currently on your car are "used". No reason...

Crikey - is that the result from using that stuff? Impressive!

Aye, ours wasn't bad underneath either (an 05), but I thought I might as well do it anyway - given the winter conditions in Aberdeenshire! Even my everyday car (JDM 1993 Prelude with proper VTEC) was OK underneath, but I figured it was about time for some preventative maintenance.

Re:scrappies. There are online parts sourcing sites which send your request out to heaps of breakers, who then contact you via email with prices. e.g. http://www.1stchoice.co.uk/car-parts/honda/accord/drive-shaft Quite useful, because your local scrappy is maybe not likely to be breaking a...

Down the local scrappy for a tenth of that price. ;) Seriously - a properly greased set of CV joints in unsplit boots should last for many years. No reason at all why a set from the scrappy shouldn't be fine. Alternatively, if it's just the CV joints that are knackered, they can be replaced...

Hmmm - thought as much, though it's not like Honda to complicate what should be an easy job. Best ask the garage guy for a shot of his ramp, then! Thanks.

Yep, I've done under both my Prelude and the Accord. It's a good idea to jetwash under the car first, then give it a going over with a stiff brush to remove loose rust, caked-on mud and so on. Let it dry before applying waxoyl, or it won't stick. If cleaning caked-on stuff off with a diesely...

Have been considering changing my front ARB bushes, because they didn't look too happy when I had the car jacked up recently. However, reading various posts on the t'internet, I believe it could be a bit more tricky than the usual two bolts, 15 minute job. Can anyone confirm what has to be...

Good thinking! :)

FHSH means very little to me, as does FSH. It just means that the previous owners dutifully turned up at a Honda garage at the requisite mileages, and Honda changed the oil for them. You have no guarantee that the particular grease monkey checked all the stuff he was supposed to check. When...

Thanks. Aye, I could see the sleeve was a folded piece of metal but didn't want to try and force it off in case the rust was holding everything together! I'll pull the shocks off again at the weekend (weather allowing) and get the sleeves removed. The new bushes I got have replacement sleeves...

Thanks. Aye, I could see the sleeve was a folded piece of metal but didn't want to try and force it off in case the rust was holding everything together! I'll pull the shocks off again at the weekend (weather allowing) and get the sleeves removed. The new bushes I got have replacement sleeves...

Whoops, yeah. Sorry. :)

Remember that if you're replacing standard bulbs with LEDs, some of them will require a "ballast" thingy because the resistance is way less than standard bulbs. Otherwise indicators will flash too fast, the car will think bulbs are out, etc.

Unless the last guy has tightened it up way above spec, you'll quite likely be able to remove it by hand. Put on one of those gardening gloves with the rubbery surface to get a good grip. Marigold nicked from the kitchen at a push. If not, the good old "punch a long screwdriver through it"...

Went to change my front strut top bushes at the weekend, and discovered that on both sides the metal sleeve that goes through the middle of the two rubber bushes (# 16 in below Lings pic) appear to have rusted solid onto the spindle (i.e. the top bit of the shocker). Also, #10 - the metal...

Sorry mate, tried to send you the link via PM but for some reason it failed! Will try again later. Meantime, after a full clean of any mesh filter I could lay my hands on and thereafter few days of working fine, my CEL has come on again. It happened a couple of days ago just after I'd filled...

I'll get back to you in July or August. We do a road trip to northern Hungary every year, part of which involves seeing what kind of mpg we get on a long autobahn / autostrada / Alpine / cities / rural roads run with a boot full of camping gear and stuff for 3 weeks (so pretty well loaded)...

Aye, sounds like that sort of thing. If it had been something ******ed then it would stop working. Only other thing could be a bad connection or frayed wire somewhere, I guess. I have a spare solenoid now, though, which could be useful. Might just change the whole unit out anyway. I don't much...

Update - been out for a spirited drive this morning. CEL light went off within a minute of starting up, and didn't come back on again. No limp mode. How strange. I notice that the 10mm bolt that holds the oil control valve onto the side of the head appears to be poking out further than the one...