Hi
In this DIY, I will explain how I did the removal and installation of the new exhaust manifold.
I apologize in advance if there are any error in my writing, I am from Norway, and this is my first post so please bare with me
Honda has an 7 year/200000 km service on this error, but mine was 3 months to old, so I did not get this one covered.
Here in Norway, just the exhaust manifold cost 5 500 NOK, about 550 £, and then the work cost comes on top with about 1000 nok/100£ per hour, my *** hurts! :unsure: :wacko:
It all started with that I smelled exhaust fumes inside my car wen I was idling when the car stood still.
I removed the heat shield over the manifold and this was totaly black underneath because of the sot, pictures below.
What you need.
1. Socket wrench set
2. Allen key set
3. Plastic gloves, I used this with one plastig strip to "blind" the hoses i took of. I did not have a hose clamp
4. I used 2 Car stands, so I could access the car from beneath.
5.One good rust lubrication! I bought one really good at my local Würth dealer. Highly recommended on those rusty bolts!
6. I bought my manifoild kit from www.balmerlawngroup.co.uk, Superb kit!
7. I used 7 hours on this job, we had some problems with some of the exhaust bolt
Start of work!
1. Remove the engine cover, it is 4, 10 mm screws.
2. Remove the vacum hoose, the coolant hose, breather hose and oil hose
I just used the plastic gloves and a plastic strip to blind the coolant and oil hose.
The breather hose is number 9, just loos it from the cylinder head cover
The coolant hose beneath, as you can see on the first picture. There will come out some coolant here, so try to blind this hose as fast as you can if you dont have hoose clamps. All this coolant is coming from the inside heatexchanger. The small hose is the oil hose, remove the clamp on this one also. If you manage take of the air hoose clamp to the turbo and pry the hose off.
3. Remove the heat shield over the manifold
The heat shield is attached with 3 screws (nuber 4 on the drawing), 14 mm. The new manifold has only 2
You may have to fiddle some to get the shield out from its place, but keep calm and it will come out.
This is how mine looked beneath, it is clearly a exhaust leakage!
4. Under the car, remove the flex part on the exhaust,
The flex is number 8 in the picture,
The bolts and nuts are 14 mm
Remove the bracket that is holding the flex part also
5. Remove the 2 air hoses from the turbo if you did not do if from above
6. Remove the coolant and oil pipe lines that oes in/out from the turbo, and goes into the engine block.
You have to remove the lines completely, I managed to losen it from the turbo, and on the returline og the oil. The coolant from the tom of the engine I managed to loosen from the top of the engine. The last pipe is at the left og the engine bay, this one is easier to remove from the bottom of the enginge
The line you have to loosen is nr 1 and 13.
Just take your time.
7. Remove the Converter that goes in tho the turbo
On this one I used a lot of rust lubricant, do not stress on this if it is stuck or you will brake the nuts form and they you are in s**** up to your ears
8. Remove the Turbocharger
On this you have to be gentel so you don't brake the vacuum clock on top of the turbo, and make sure the pipes for the coolant and oil to the turbo is taken care of.
Used a lot of rust lubicant on these 3 bolt also, this lubricant is fantastic!
When the nuts are off, remove the supporting bracket, remove turbocharger away brom the exhaust maifold, and down and out from the engine bay.
9. Remove the exhaust manifold
Use the rust lubricant on this also! There are 8 nuts on the manifold.
This is how mine looked after the removal, you can clearly see that the welding is cracked! This is not good, exhaust fuems inside the car is dangerous! I think Honda should have exstended the waranty of this failure to 10 years. This manifold has been usen on the Diesel engine sine they came in 2003/2004
9. Installing the new exhaust manifold
Just do it revere order, just make sure that you remeber to put on new gaskets if you have bought the complete set/kit
When you are attaching the turbo, there is a trick to attache the pipe lines before you tighten the turbo down on the manifold.
The rest is easy peacy
Make sure that everything is connected back again, the coolant hoses, oil hooses, vacum and breather hooses, before start up!
I had to to off my coolant before start up, i managed to spill some when I removed the coolant hose :lol:
When you start, just let it run for 10-20 secunds on the 3-5 first start, tis is to make the oil and coolant come trough the system.
A little tips in the end, if you have no warm air inside the car from the aircon when the car engine is warm, you have to top off your coolant level, and maybe get the air out.
I bought a complete set, but you can just buy the manifold also. If you have welding equipment you can weld the old one also
I have alot of pictures but I was not allowed to add more :huh:
Hope this helps!
Best regards from Norway
In this DIY, I will explain how I did the removal and installation of the new exhaust manifold.
I apologize in advance if there are any error in my writing, I am from Norway, and this is my first post so please bare with me
Honda has an 7 year/200000 km service on this error, but mine was 3 months to old, so I did not get this one covered.
Here in Norway, just the exhaust manifold cost 5 500 NOK, about 550 £, and then the work cost comes on top with about 1000 nok/100£ per hour, my *** hurts! :unsure: :wacko:
It all started with that I smelled exhaust fumes inside my car wen I was idling when the car stood still.
I removed the heat shield over the manifold and this was totaly black underneath because of the sot, pictures below.
What you need.
1. Socket wrench set
2. Allen key set
3. Plastic gloves, I used this with one plastig strip to "blind" the hoses i took of. I did not have a hose clamp
4. I used 2 Car stands, so I could access the car from beneath.
5.One good rust lubrication! I bought one really good at my local Würth dealer. Highly recommended on those rusty bolts!
6. I bought my manifoild kit from www.balmerlawngroup.co.uk, Superb kit!
7. I used 7 hours on this job, we had some problems with some of the exhaust bolt
Start of work!
1. Remove the engine cover, it is 4, 10 mm screws.
2. Remove the vacum hoose, the coolant hose, breather hose and oil hose
I just used the plastic gloves and a plastic strip to blind the coolant and oil hose.
The breather hose is number 9, just loos it from the cylinder head cover
The coolant hose beneath, as you can see on the first picture. There will come out some coolant here, so try to blind this hose as fast as you can if you dont have hoose clamps. All this coolant is coming from the inside heatexchanger. The small hose is the oil hose, remove the clamp on this one also. If you manage take of the air hoose clamp to the turbo and pry the hose off.
3. Remove the heat shield over the manifold
The heat shield is attached with 3 screws (nuber 4 on the drawing), 14 mm. The new manifold has only 2
You may have to fiddle some to get the shield out from its place, but keep calm and it will come out.
This is how mine looked beneath, it is clearly a exhaust leakage!
4. Under the car, remove the flex part on the exhaust,
The flex is number 8 in the picture,
The bolts and nuts are 14 mm
Remove the bracket that is holding the flex part also
5. Remove the 2 air hoses from the turbo if you did not do if from above
6. Remove the coolant and oil pipe lines that oes in/out from the turbo, and goes into the engine block.
You have to remove the lines completely, I managed to losen it from the turbo, and on the returline og the oil. The coolant from the tom of the engine I managed to loosen from the top of the engine. The last pipe is at the left og the engine bay, this one is easier to remove from the bottom of the enginge
The line you have to loosen is nr 1 and 13.
Just take your time.
7. Remove the Converter that goes in tho the turbo
On this one I used a lot of rust lubricant, do not stress on this if it is stuck or you will brake the nuts form and they you are in s**** up to your ears
8. Remove the Turbocharger
On this you have to be gentel so you don't brake the vacuum clock on top of the turbo, and make sure the pipes for the coolant and oil to the turbo is taken care of.
Used a lot of rust lubicant on these 3 bolt also, this lubricant is fantastic!
When the nuts are off, remove the supporting bracket, remove turbocharger away brom the exhaust maifold, and down and out from the engine bay.
9. Remove the exhaust manifold
Use the rust lubricant on this also! There are 8 nuts on the manifold.
This is how mine looked after the removal, you can clearly see that the welding is cracked! This is not good, exhaust fuems inside the car is dangerous! I think Honda should have exstended the waranty of this failure to 10 years. This manifold has been usen on the Diesel engine sine they came in 2003/2004
9. Installing the new exhaust manifold
Just do it revere order, just make sure that you remeber to put on new gaskets if you have bought the complete set/kit
When you are attaching the turbo, there is a trick to attache the pipe lines before you tighten the turbo down on the manifold.
The rest is easy peacy
Make sure that everything is connected back again, the coolant hoses, oil hooses, vacum and breather hooses, before start up!
I had to to off my coolant before start up, i managed to spill some when I removed the coolant hose :lol:
When you start, just let it run for 10-20 secunds on the 3-5 first start, tis is to make the oil and coolant come trough the system.
A little tips in the end, if you have no warm air inside the car from the aircon when the car engine is warm, you have to top off your coolant level, and maybe get the air out.
I bought a complete set, but you can just buy the manifold also. If you have welding equipment you can weld the old one also
I have alot of pictures but I was not allowed to add more :huh:
Hope this helps!
Best regards from Norway