Basically, I've been told a few things in tech talk, some of which I didn't understand because I don't know enough about these things yet. So I went googling the things I was unsure of and then replied to him putting what I understood into layman's terms to check that I am correct, or if I've misunderstood something. I'm just waiting on confirmation about if I'm right or not. I think I am, as it makes sense to me, but it's better to be safe than sorry.
So here's where I'm at so far:
Firstly, the facelift ECU
will work just fine (***uming it's from the same spec car - must have the same transmission too). However the wiring in the facelift is slightly different to the pre-facelift so you need to make some changes before you take it to Honda to be recoded. What we're concerning ourselves with here is the CAN Bus.
The CAN Bus is a data protocol that the ECU uses to talk to the immobiliser amongst other things. It's also one of the ways the Honda ECU re-coding machine talks to the ECU. The CAN Bus is easily accessible as there is a large connector terminal socket tucked away in the cabin that should have free/empty slots on it. You simply need to get the correct shape connector and cable and make a new connector to add to the setup.
You take the other end of this cabling and connect the cables to empty slots on the DLC connector under your steering wheel (you know the one they plug the diagnosis machines into). I.e. you simply make a new 2-cable loom (or buy one from Hondata - ***uming they sell them separately from the Flash Pro Kits).
You have to do the same procedure if you buy a Flash Pro and TSX ECU and therefore there is an
instruction manual for this process, which is nice. You only really need to pay attention to the first 4 or so pages of this manual.
But basically I've broken down the whole process into 4 steps:
- 1) Find the CAN terminals behind the dash and add a new connector to a spare slot with the red and white cables connected in the same way as the others (as shown in the pictures)
- 2) Swap the grey cable from pin 14 to pin 1 (this won't affect the operation of your car - it's just used by Honda for recoding security features to ECUs)
- 3) Then on the other end, go to the DLC connector, put the red cable in the empty pin 6 and the white cable in empty pin 14
- 4) Drive to Honda, give them the new ECU and say "Install and Code this badboy for me, Baby!"
The CAN Bus terminal is not in the same place on our Accords as the TSX apparently. Instead someone has found it in a UKDM Accord
under the steering wheel (the grey sockets in the 2nd picture down in this linked thread).
So providing you can get a working facelift ECU, then you do this rather simple wiring and get the thing re-coded. Once re-coded you can post it F6had who can cook you up a nice remap too give you a little more power, a little more torque and a broader power band.
Like I said above, I'm waiting for the all-clear on this reasoning, so please don't quote me on this just yet. I shall let you know if/when I hear back from the guy. I'm also awaiting confirmation on if you can use a CL9 ECU in a CM2 ECU and vise-versa (if so, this could make purchasing an ECU a bit easier).
Oh, and while it's fairly obvious, it's worth mentioning, buying an ECU from a breakers has risks. If the car's been in a smash the ECU could have suffered voltage overloads and the circuit could be fried. There may have been a fire which means it could be fire damaged or water damaged from the fire being put out. If it's been in a big smash there could be holes in the car where water gets in, so the ECU could be water damaged from sitting in the yard getting rained on. It's safer to find a car in apparent reasonable condition or a write off on account of expensive cosmetic damage to the rear, or something mechanical, but nothing major near the engine bay like no fire, floods, big front end smashes etc.
So what do we think boys? Any holes in this reasoning? Anything I've not considered or addressed? Any further thought or comments on this?