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littlebo reflash Q&A

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I have. Had a drive earlier in the week and switched it off with this thread in mind. I'm not convinced in the difference between VSA on/off. Didn't really think there was much difference. If there was, it was very marginal. Tried a few different acceleration scenarios and didn't think the car was any more responsive to the throttle movement with the VSA off.

I'm in the queue to try out the test ECU. Once it's with me, I'll give it a go and write a review.
 
I know, gentlemen's are gone.... but trust my word, vsa has nothing to do with tb behavior nor it's sensitivity. don't waste er gas on these testings.

Tb lag can be solved 70% with reflash and 30% with bigger tb .
 
I have been driving about today and the throttle is just so so much better now I previously tried with the VSA off to see if that would make any difference and I never found it did. Just want to say how much fun this car is when you can now change gear and still be in the Vtec window. Brilliant. But generally loving the smoothness. My ecv is being sent away Monday for the reflash so UKcl9 should have his back next week as well.
Loving this mod.
 
bogdic said:
'' Firstly can I say I noticed that coming off and back on to the accelerator pedal felt smoother I don't know if anyone else has noticed this but to me its always felt a little jerky !''

Well this is good news. I can always feel that on mine, when I take my foot off the accelerator.

Wonder if cleaning the throttle body would help.
Click to expand...
Tried cleaning the throttle body prior to this mod. Made no difference plus it wasn't even that dirty.
 
I dont recommend to touch \ clean TB , this never helped to solve any problem. To keep it forever clean just disconnect valve cover breather tube..
 
I was walking past a homeopathic shop this morning and so I bought one of their very small bottles of water, and poured it into the water reservoir on my Accord. Amazing drive back from town !!!!
 
Not bad, try to pour it into gas tank next time, car will pull even stronger.
 
You should know that it's not a good idea to put water in the fuel tank :wacko:

I might be able to get some Holy water and, if I get it, I will sprinkle it onto the top of the ECU to see if it makes any difference. With the ECU being fairly large I should get away with a bit of Holy water on the outside.
 
I tried Holy water, +2hp on wheels, +1 to bad eye resistance, as for me , result not worth the game.
 
Patrick Head, the former director of engineering for Williams, has said that F1 engines are now too expensive http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/formula1/27643627

It seems that Ferrari have preempted everyone by trialing an alternative

F1motorhome.jpg


Rumour has it that Ferrari filled the radiator of this motor-home with Holy Water from the Vatican

Being from the UK, McLaren and Williams have allegedly been in talks with Anglicans and Methodists.
 
How this remap will work with basic bolt ons, for example header, exhaust, CAI, TB, Intake manifold? Does anyone have any experience and perhaps MAX power results?

I have seen different kind of results between 230 - 250 BHP with Hondata FlashPro, depending on modifications.
 
TKR said:
How this remap will work with basic bolt ons, for example header, exhaust, CAI, TB, Intake manifold? Does anyone have any experience and perhaps MAX power results?

I have seen different kind of results between 230 - 250 BHP with Hondata FlashPro, depending on modifications.
Click to expand...
and depending on the fudge factors put into the dyno computer.

Unless the engine is taken out f the car, in most cases the accuracy to which the engine BHP is implied cannot be better than 5% IMO.

The only way to be sure of comparisons is to compare BHP at the wheels, but sadly people prefer to bandy about engine graphs when it was measured at the wheels.
 
It will maximaze the gain of the reflash, they work very well together.
Please see my signature you will find my list of mods I'm using with the reflash.

TKR said:
How this remap will work with basic bolt ons, for example header, exhaust, CAI, TB, Intake manifold? Does anyone have any experience and perhaps MAX power results?

I have seen different kind of results between 230 - 250 BHP with Hondata FlashPro, depending on modifications.
Click to expand...
 
Very interested in this also after reading through the thread . I'm a little cautious I've only had one experience of mapping and it wasn't a good one.
 
Guys, don't hunt for numbers, hunt for result and new driving exp. imo , reflash isn't for showing dyno papers to other chaps but for smile on er face. +1 to freddo, results from diff dynos aren't objective, one read high, one read low. all you can measure there for shure is your gains in compare with base run, so once you know delta you can add it to your 190hp lol

Biccers, man, I can say that around 70-80% of this biz is a scam, sad but true. fortunately not in this case. Keep on following thread and you'll see more and more happy doods soon.
 
dinoc said:
It will maximaze the gain of the reflash, they work very well together.
Please see my signature you will find my list of mods I'm using with the reflash.
Click to expand...
Believe it, I have already read it many times :) Do you have any idea how much power your K24 engine produces now, even approximately?

I understand that max power is not the main point in this reflash. Mid range improvement is quite good for N/A engine if I understand correctly those curves. Still, I am very interested to see what kind on BHP or WHP results are available with reflash and mentioned basic bolt ons...
 
Sorry I don't have dynoed my car.
I did the mods incrementally and did not dyno it stock.
But persons with stock CL9 MT like mine, who drove my car were like "holly ****, wtf .. my car is very slow compared with this" :)
Of course is not the technical answer you are looking for but you can make an idea :)
 
On dyno where stock car usually make 190-200 , car with intake header and reflash usually make 220-230. reflash itself net around 10hp on top.
But if you follow this topic, we made an explanation that top pawa don't speak bout whole improvement, engine don't work at those revs, it just reach em and jump back in the middle, each gear.
 
Just wanna say a massive thanks to UKcl9 for his fantastic service. I now have my ecu back and freshly tuned. Now I have a type S accord :).
Fantastic service, great communication and a superb mod.
Many thanks UKcl9.
 
Thanks for kind words man. Im really pleased to know that it makes you smile. U can try to tinker with CTR and youll see you have a type-R Acco now.

Please let us know bout MPG , if its improved and how much, lots of ppl cant really believe that its possible to bump power and improve MPG at the same time !
 
littlebo said:
But if you follow this topic, we made an explanation that top pawa don't speak bout whole improvement, engine don't work at those revs, it just reach em and jump back in the middle, each gear.
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that got me thinking, it's not exactly correct, I checked in the owners-manual (for my car owners-manual = 32-SED-6030)

page 301 has max speeds in each gear (6-speed manual transmission)

!st = 32 mph (* speedo on my car = 34 mph)
2nd = 62 mph (* speedo on my car = 65 mph)
3rd = 85 mph (* speedo on my car = 89 mph)
4th = 112 mph (* speedo on my car = 118 mph)
5th = 140 mph (* speedo on my car = 147 mph)

* speedo on my car reads 5% fast

at-a-glance speeds are 32-62-85-112-140

Max engine speed is 7200

so when you change up you get the following "bottom" rpm for each gear

2nd = (32 ÷ 62) x 7200 = 3716 rpm

3rd = (62 ÷ 85) x 7200 = 5251 rpm

4th = (85 ÷ 112) x 7200 = 5464 rpm

5th = (112 ÷ 140) x 7200 = 5760 rpm

This is why the car feels "dead" when changing from 1st to 2nd.
But the change from 2nd to 3rd does not feel so bad.
 
i think littlebo ment.k24 owners use the mid range more than the red line.

so are you saying when you change to 2nd from 1st at 7200rpm.revs drop to 3716 in 2nd.that doesnt sound right to me.sounds very low.i dont remember my car dropping that low.

the reflash will massively improve the "dead" feeling your getting changing into 2nd

changing the gear ratios makes a massive improvement in accelration.ep3 gear 1-5
reading above i think my speedo is 4mph slower than sat nav
1st longer 42 mph @7600
2nd shorter 63mph
3rd shorter 86mph
4th shorter 112mph

i think the best mods for the k24 are reflash and gear ratio changes
 
Those figures are correct, definitely, from both experience and from the owners-manual. Sergey's wording also implies that the revs drop to the middle, but he says "each gear", whereas it's only 1st to 2nd where that happens.

For a long time I have thought that the stock gear ratio in 1st is far too low.

From your figures, the ep3 gearbox is more of a "close ratio", which is better. But changing the gearbox is a massive job on these cars, the sub-frame has to be dropped, and to do that the exhaust has to be dropped. Virtually impossible to do on axle stands.
 
i went out in vtuist car after i maped it.im sure changing 1st to 2nd it was still in vtec.i will ask him.

adding 400 rpm to the rev range will help.when changing from 1st to 2nd....i found it added 4/5 mph to each gear.

true.its a big job.you have to take the gears and main shaft out the ep3 greabox.and fit inside the cl9 gearbox.as ep3/cl9 housing are different.but if you plan to do it when changing the clutch its not that bad..ep3 gears are close.they give the car very good accelration.i would recommand these two mods to everyone.
 
ukcl9 said:
i went out in vtuist car after i maped it.im sure changing 1st to 2nd it was still in vtec.i will ask him.
Click to expand...

stock ??

stock max = 7200 rpm
stock speeds
32-62-85-112-140 .....owners-manual
34-65-89-118-147 .....speedo on my car (which reads 5% fast)


ukcl9 said:
adding 400 rpm to the rev range will help.when changing from 1st to 2nd....i found it added 4/5 mph to each gear.
Click to expand...
almost....

7600 is an increase of 5.5% on 7200

32-62-85-112-140 (7200 true speeds)
becomes
34-65-89-118-147 (7600 true speeds)


"bottom" revs when changing up become

2nd = (34 ÷ 65) x 7600 = 3975 rpm
3rd = (65 ÷ 89) x 7600 = 5550 rpm
4th = (89 ÷ 118) x 7600 = 5732 rpm
5th = (118 ÷ 147) x 7600 = 6100 rpm
 
Nope freddo, its a mistake somewhere in er calc. I dont ride on MT too often but i remember that 2nd gear lands to around 4500-4600 rpms, not 3700. ALL 5 gears falls out of vtec when you change em, shure , 2-3 isnt that bad as 1-2 but anyway. One more problem is that air flow has a break at vtec crossover which affect power, and untill it stabilizes you have a dip, you can see it on all graphs. So every time you change gear you arent only fall out of vtec but you also have that dip. Stock revs arent 7200, i dunno why this number posted everywhere. i see 7100 value in calibration so its 7100.
 
All gearing rpms you can see here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXY5WGxb8rk
 
littlebo said:
Nope freddo, its a mistake somewhere in er calc. I dont ride on MT too often but i remember that 2nd gear lands to around 4500-4600 rpms, not 3700. ALL 5 gears falls out of vtec when you change em, shure , 2-3 isnt that bad as 1-2 but anyway. One more problem is that air flow has a break at vtec crossover which affect power, and untill it stabilizes you have a dip, you can see it on all graphs. So every time you change gear you arent only fall out of vtec but you also have that dip. Stock revs arent 7200, i dunno why this number posted everywhere. i see 7100 value in calibration so its 7100.
Click to expand...
No mistake in my calculations Sergey.

btw I just realised that there is no need to redo the whole calc again if the rev limit changes, because the gear ratios (max speed ratios) stay the same (I used rounding on the speeds in last part of #266, and redoing the max speed ratios is actually unnecessary)

It's a lot simpler to just multiply the rpm figures (in #262) by the percent difference.

so to be pernickety, let's do 7100 on 7200, which is 0.986


2nd = 3716 x 0.986 = 3663 rpm
3rd = 5251 x 0.986 = 5177 rpm
4th = 5464 x 0.986 = 5367 rpm
5th = 5760 x 0.986 = 5679 rpm


now 7600 on 7200, which is 1.055

2nd = 3716 x 1.055 = 3920 rpm
3rd = 5251 x 1.055 = 5539 rpm
4th = 5464 x 1.055 = 5764 rpm
5th = 5760 x 1.055 = 6076 rpm
 
littlebo said:
All gearing rpms you can see here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXY5WGxb8rk
Click to expand...


errrrr looks like a different set of gear ratios there dude ....Type S

what are you "engineers" basing your "engineering" on .... I base my engineering on the use of mathematics and factual precision



edit: and btw Sergey, the revs don't behave as you said in #259, but more like I show in my calcs (apart from the fact that Type S 1st gear ratio is different from EXEC 1st gear ratio, or, someone slapped in yet another gearbox on the car in that vid)
 
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