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P2004 - IMRC Intake Manifold Runner Control problems

You can still do the egr off via our file only solution, it's not a difficult job.

My original recommendation stands, egr off and clean the inlet.

Your imrc actuator might be knackered so budget for replacing it as it might have become damaged from trying to open and close a sticking imrc.
 
Could be a dirty/sticky IMRC, so worth cleaning it. Or maybe the vacuum bellows have failed, so you could try applying a gentle suction to the pipework to see if you can make it move (maybe by mouth?). Otherwise the FSV has probably failed... if the ECU responds to disconnecting the electrical plug then the solenoid coil is probably OK, so either the air admittance filter is blocked or the valve has jammed and is therefore not controlling the flow of vacuum. You could possibly rig up some test equipment to find the problem, but this would involve applying electrical signals while blowing/sucking some pipes connected to the FSV.
 
thanks guys,

I will try cleaning the egr sensor and the intake manifold and see how that effects the car's performance.
 
There isn't an EGR sensor, it's a valve. I don't think cleaning the inlet manifold will help this issue at all (even if it is becoming the trend!), and I'd only bother cleaning the EGR valve just enough to ensure that it is actually closing fully.
 
has somebody video how it is shuttering during accelearation when IRMC valvue is damaged ? Has somebody helped just to change IRMC filter ? thx
 
Hey! Just bought my 2004 2.2 I-CDTI Tourer a couple of weeks ago and I am so happy.

Though just after a few days, I noticed that the previous owner has probably been removing the CELs, or maybe just has been lucky - and I've got the P2004. Stuttering has become worse over time (it's more frequent) - well okay, the vacuum leak is developing. But also I'm now dropping quite a lot of black-ish smoke under heavy acceleration - I hope this is the cause of the vacuum leak and nothing else? It would make sense that the mixture is not correct due to the vacuum leak and the flap not being able to operate properly.

Fuel consumption also isn't what I was hoping for - but it is not that bad http://www.spritmonitor.de/en/detail/714305.html
I took a couple of videos and made this clip for reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OvI76Bt_Nk&feature=youtu.be&t=0m23s


As so,
Could somebody confirm that they got black smoke with this error code? Should I start by still cleaning MAF, IMRC Valve, EGR? Or just order the part?
Also the error code seems to disspear on its own, though - if I move the flap manually all the way in or out, the code does not dissapear - as it did for some owners.


P.S.
Additionally, under high RPM - I've got terrifying white smoke coming out of the engine (what seems like the back of the gasket/exhaust). What the hell could that be? gasket? or some overflow valve? I suppose I need to open up an another thread - or use search first ;).

I thought that the accord had quite a bit of turbo lag, but mine shoots forward at around 1.7k - 2k, is this related to the smoke? Leak somewhere? (The turbo is at the back of the engine, where the smoke is coming from, isnt it?)
 
You've probably got a badly cracked manifold leak.

I would remove and thoroughly clean the inlet manifold and fully free up the intake flap, and then blank the EGR valve and map it.
 
F6HAD said:
You've probably got a badly cracked manifold leak.

I would remove and thoroughly clean the inlet manifold and fully free up the intake flap, and then blank the EGR valve and map it.
Click to expand...
Hey Fahad,

1)
For the crack, I will do my best to get a flashlight in there and check manifold/exhaust. Or at the very least I can have a good eye on where the smoke is coming out. The smell in the passenger cabin has been getting worse, especially when idling - so I think you are right!

2)
By 'fully freeing' the intake flap, I suppose you mean cleaning it? As for the inlet manifold, I will check the forums.

3)
As for the EGR valve delete. As I understand it is possible to block it mechanically, and then I would need to go to the ECU guys (for 87-184 Euro here) to do an ECU EGR delete. What about the emissions test? What do I gain from this in this situation?


Do you think I should replace 36190RBDE02 (frequency solenoid). As I understand you suggesting to take care of all of the above first? :)
Thank you so much!
 
The p2004 doesn't mean your solenoid has necessarily failed but rather that the flap is stuck in the open position. This will be due to the build up soot and gunk in your inlet manifold.

You will need to disconnect the solenoid anyway when removing the inlet so spend a good day thoroughly cleaning it all and moving the flap by hand to make sure it's free.

Yes once all refitted, fit a blanking plate where the egr pipe meets the front of the manifold and use a tuner to map out the EGR correctly.

Your emissions test shouldn't be an issue and the car will breathe nice clean air only moving forwards.
 
I can do a remote file only service if you're outside the UK or you can send me your ecu
 
F6HAD said:
I can do a remote file only service if you're outside the UK or you can send me your ecu
Click to expand...
Thank you very much for the info mate!
I will make some time for this. I also need how to get binaries up/down these ECUs (I used to mess with SAAB T7s), and I might inquiry you about the tuning service.

I will get back with my findings.
 
My weekend car is a T7 ;)

Check our Facebook page for pics
 
Hey Guys,

An update for you all.
Cleaned the intake with EGR cleaner and mechanically. It was quite a black dough factory in there. Basically EGR cleaner + brake cleaner, then put everything together and EGR cleaner into a running engine.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/joohafnxkpcxemd/AAA-Qw-MqzaZOA8S7UYquRs6a
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/g2gs8edopg9190k/AAC_H9d6HhtJsIG1GSCtZj-qa

and it turned into this:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x93ogrq47tmnihl/AAC04L1keBBEU3-nAkY5r5Zma
Basically it ran much more smoothly, but the engine code was still there, just as I got back and stopped while the engine was running in the car park.


Ordered the solenoid used, with 6 months warranty, by writing directly to an eBayer, who stocked lots of old valves, asking him about the revised part. He guaranteed that he can hook me up with the revised part and did. The part is on the way, for around 45 GBP, which is quite a leap from 100-110 new. I will report if its the right one, once it is here.



For the white smoke on the 2,2 I-CDTI out of the engine bay, basically - as Fahad said - it was the manifold. It seems like the exhaust manifold is leaking, either the gasket - or there's a crack. The gasket I ordered is on the way, but the disassemble is quite expensive (around 150-200 Euros AFAIK), so we will do that with a friend on our own. Found a great guide here - http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/17940-diy-replace-badcracked-manifold-on-22-i-ctdi-accord-2007/
 
Hey guys!

So I've got the part off an eBayer, though it seems - whatever he wrote - the number on the part is the same as before. Changed it out for the old one - no CEL, though the engine seems to drop more black/grey smoke now - which is wierd.

1) On the new non-defected part is the number on the part itself - the new one? Or is it the old one?
2) I wonder if my black smoke issue (under heavy accel) is due to the exhaust leak? I doubt that the ECU is adjusting in any way?

Thanks.
 
It's more likely a knackered EGR and blocked inlet manifold mate..
 
Ahh Fahad, me wants to be ecoo!!! poor EGR.
The inlet manifold is as clean as it can be :). Well, if it goes like this - I will block off that EGR like you told me to.

So the repair is done. Basically everything's quite okay. Most of the time, on the first couple WOT (for that drive) it does punch out smoke. After that I can WOT most of the time w/o anything.

Cheers for everyone that helped me, especially Fahad!
 
Hey guys.. i know it is old topic but i will try :) so im fighting with two things which actually can be a one problem
1. Jerking when im starting from first gear. It is not happening all the time but like 70%. No jerking on other gears, only 1st from stand. First try was DMF... it was done together with new clutch and problem is still there
2. Again not always but 70% of the time on gentle acceleration there is this wierd sound... kind of rattling like on vw diesel engine. It is not happening with hard acceleration or when i'm driving with same speed. Just dont get me wrong.. i know it is diesel and it is going to rattle a lil bit but it is like additional rattle, louder then in our engines normally.

can i just unplug the IMRC and drive like that for test ? Is it safe ?
 
Hi Marcin,

you can unplug the IMRC and see if it eliminates it, but it will throw up an engine warning light. You will need a code reader to clear it.

The sound could well be injector knock, it's hard to tell without hearing it. Could be a timing chain also.. or even a leaking manifold makes a weird rattle.
 
Thanks Fahad.

both chains done together with tensioners guides etc.
manifold is solved as i had problem with that around 7months ago.

well injector.. that can be an answer so i will try with IMRC first and if not... then next i will try to check injectors.

i would really like to record it but it is happening only under load so impossible to hear it on idle
 
Under load is most likely an injector. Makes sense, I suspect your inlet manifold is getting coked up. If one or more injector ports are coked up, then the injectors will be out of balance. This would also explain the flutter sensation you're getting as the IMRC is not moving freely.

Solution - remove inlet, thoroughly clean and ensure flap is moving freely, then book with me for EGR blanking solution. Solved for life.
 
So there is a chance it is still good (if it is injector) and cleaning will be enough ? Or cleaning + new injector ?
 
in my experience, injector balance can be restored after inlet cleaning and EGR blanking.
 
I have new IMCR valve to sell. Sorry, can't post to market thread as it's not visible, just pm me if you are interested.
 
Hi everyone

I have problem with IMRC VALVE INCORET POSITION .

Engine light is on when the engine is cold and can't go more than 2000 rmp . When engine get hot engine check lamp going off automatically and car running absolutely fine .

WHAT I HAVE TO DO TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM ?

Thanks in Advance.
 
Clean intake, free up the flap and blank the egr and remap. Drop me a line for pricing if interested.
 
Hi all, So is it just a matter of changing the vacuum solenoid valve 480 for facelift model to fix the P2004 error code? Cheers
 
Yes, the Frequency Solenoid Valve costs about £130 and it's really easy to swap over on a facelift (also easy on PFL). Simply take the engine cover off (4small nuts) and the FSV is front and centre just above the EGR, it's a little black unit a couple of inches across with some vacuum pipes going into it... Pull of the pipes, undo the bolt holding it in place and swap... 10 min job at most.

Clear the codes before starting the engine and double check it doesn't come back.
 
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