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P2004 - IMRC Intake Manifold Runner Control problems

I'm in the Plymouth area. I should have added in my initial post that when the problem first occurred I took it to my usual Honda garage who performed a diagnostic test and subsequently identified the clogged intake pipe.

After cleaning it was ok for a week or so then the fault started again on an intermittent basis.
 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean by 'intake pipe'... is this the inlet manifold?

If you paid the garage to fix it, then taking it back and telling them the problem has returned would be perfectly reasonable.
 
Yes, sorry I meant intake manifold to be more precise. So far all I've paid Honda to do is the diagnostic test which according to them didn't show anything unusual. Everything else I've checked myself and I'd rather fix it myself if I can identify what is causing the problem.
 
Touring the M6 said:
Yes, sorry I meant intake manifold to be more precise. So far all I've paid Honda to do is the diagnostic test which according to them didn't show anything unusual. Everything else I've checked myself and I'd rather fix it myself if I can identify what is causing the problem.
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I'll try again - "inlet manifold"!
 
Did they run diagnostics when the car was cold? That's when the problem occurs, so it would make sense.

It's an odd problem! If you have a pre-facelift model, all you need to test your EGR is some wires. If it's a facelift, then you can swap the EVR valve over with the one actuating the turbo boost and see if the fault transfers.
 
Yes, I left the car with them overnight so they could test it when cold. It's a pre-face lift so I'll have to find a way of testing the EGR - I'll be on the lookout for a 12V power supply at work tomorrow.

I've been out in the car twice today and predictably the fault hasn't re-occurred. Never mind, it appears I now have a sticky brake caliper to deal with!
 
Touring the M6 said:
I'll try again - "inlet manifold"!
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Just to be as accurate as possible and makes sure my terminolgy is correct - the inlet manifold was absolutely fine with only surface soot evident. It was the pipe which bolts onto the inlet which was coked up. Doesn't make any difference in reality as coked up or not, the problem is still there intermittently.

I'll test the EGR valve's operation and see whats going on.
 
A bit of an update - I haven't had a chance to take the EGR valve out for testing, however I have had some more symptoms which are more typical of an EGR valve which is starting to fail. The fault is still intermittent and only when the engine is cold but I am getting occasional hesitation or occassion jerking when trying to accelerate at low revs.

The way I see it I have 3 options:

1. Replace with a new EGR valve - expensive.

2. Get a second hand EGR valve from a breakers yard. Still suprisingly expensive at around £250 for an electric actuated EGR valve and no guarantee of success.

3. Remap with a an EGR delete. I believe Premier Tuning charge around £250 for this service?

What do you guys think is my best option?
 
Don't drive a diesel, but I say delete. From what I've heard, it's a a great solution and the car will be much better for it.
 
Stevearcade said:
Don't drive a diesel, but I say delete. From what I've heard, it's a a great solution and the car will be much better for it.
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My next car will definitely be a petrol but i'd like to keep this one running for a few more years!
 
Option 2 or 3 mate. Can you try temporarily blanking off the egr and test how it runs.
 
Deffo not option 1... too expensive!

Maybe strip down your potentially faulty one and see if it is sticking and whether you can free it up?
 
F6HAD said:
Option 2 or 3 mate. Can you try temporarily blanking off the egr and test how it runs.
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I'll have to get a blanking plate, but the task of blanking it and testing should be pretty easy - I've already had the EGR valve off to inspect it for soot/carbon deposits. I do have a couple of questions though - Is there any risk of damage to the egr valve by just blanking it off? Also, by blanking off the egr valve but not altering the map, surely the engine will run differently anyway as there will be a different airflow to what is expected with the EGR valve operational?
 
Jon_G said:
Deffo not option 1... too expensive!

Maybe strip down your potentially faulty one and see if it is sticking and whether you can free it up?
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I'll have to wait until the weather improves. Unfortunately the garage is taken up with my CBR600 which i'm in the process of refreshing.
 
Yes by temporarily blanking you will get an error but if the hesitation problem stops you will know its the egr. No risk of damage as the plate will go on between the valve and inlet.

Have a chat with Ray (luckyboy) he has done this recently so can tell you exactly where the plate is best fitted.
 
F6HAD said:
Yes by temporarily blanking you will get an error but if the hesitation problem stops you will know its the egr. No risk of damage as the plate will go on between the valve and inlet.

Have a chat with Ray (luckyboy) he has done this recently so can tell you exactly where the plate is best fitted.
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Nothing's ever easy - A quick trawl of Ebay has shown a total of 0 suitable blanking plates. I've ordered some crocodile clips and test leads instead, which will at least allow me to test the operation of the valve.

P.s. F6HAD - thanks for the heads up ref luckyboy - I've pm'd him to see where he got his from and where it fits.
 
You will need to make one up mate. Easy enough to do and his mechanic made one for him.

We don't make or supply them as we switch off the egr in the maps but if the valve is jammed or not shutting fully then a plate will be needed and we will need to add a manual error delete.

You could cut up an old coke can and use that to test.
 
Hi, I told him how the blank plate block the inlet manifold, so how things going mate?
 
Thanks Ray, I'm fine mate

Cheers
 
It turned out to be a sticky EGR valve in the end. I tested it with my motorbike battery and it wouldn't budge. I manage to free it up and sprayed some EGR cleaner spray in there with the valve in the open position. It would appear some soot or gunk managed to get between the valve and the valve cartridge and gum it up but it didn't take too much effort to free up.

Engine performance appears to be back to normal - for now...

Disappointingly I managed to drop the EGR cooler pipe gasket when putting it all back together and it promptly disappeared out of sight. £10.32 later and I have one in the post courtesy of Lings. Still its cheaper than the £670 they charge for a new EGR valve!

Many thanks for your collective ***istance!
 
Great news - maybe you want to consider an EGR OFF at some point now.
 
F6HAD said:
Great news - maybe you want to consider an EGR OFF at some point now.
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I'm visiting family in Derbyshire just after Easter so that would be a pretty convenient time for me to travel up and get an EGR delete / remap.
 
Hi folks
(Age 40, male, Accord Sport 57 plate, 118k).

I keep reading on here to make sure you read this post from beginning to end. So, as I couldn't sleep, either down to the mrs snoring, or my car giving my trouble, (betting on the latter as I'm used to the mrs now, finally, with the aid of ear plugs), I made a point of doing exactly that.

Jeez....I have read every word and it has taken forever! Now I have read it, felt compelled to share my experience too, although I'm not after answers now. So;

MPG is less normal, noticeably
Performance is down slightly, but not alarmingly
No juddering or hesitation, slight hiccup once prob every 2/3 months
6 month Intermittent EML is now constant for last week, P2004
Thanks to this forum, cleaned IMRC valve butterfly housing yesterday, gunky, but not massively.
Noticed yesterday, whilst idle, little arm on IMRC diaphragm flying saucer thingy was moving erratically on its own accord, (no pun), upon initial start, then stopped after a few mins when still idle, but rev counter when idle is always stable, usual well below 1K rpm. Noticed little spring loaded arm to butterfly did not move when revving too...not sure if that's normal? (Mrs helped, lucky me)! So, not sure if it is supposed to move or not when revving or accelerating? Maybe that will explain the lower MPG if it's supposed to move when accelerating?

So, I guess this issue can manifest itself as a multitude of symptoms, but thanks to this forum and some very detailed write ups, I'm more confident to have a look myself, rather than go to the not so friendly local stealer. I may have to go eventually to get a new FSV, but I'll start with the filter for it first.

Being a Sunday, I'll wait for half Halfords to open and get some electrical contact spray and do some DIY and some vacuum tests in the meantime.

I just wanted to extend a simple "thanks" above anything.

Regards
 
It will be the diaphragm filter causing the issue, and on yours that part is replaceable on its own.

remember the IMRC and EGR are essentially part of the same loop so most likely your EGR is also coked up. Clean them both out or blank off.

good luck!
 
What's the diaphragm filter? I've changed the filter on my IMRC and still getting lumpy hesitation, 2008 57' plate 2.2
 
Your egr valve is the problem.
 
Sorry to sound so blunt but I've seen it too many times which is why I say it with confidence
 
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