VSA Modulator Light
- Thread starter mohammed
- Start date
Rayvern Titan
New Member
Hi guys
Had an Accord since August. Been lovely to drive etc... I'm planning on cleaning inlet manifold if we ever have a nice weekend..... However, I bought it with 18 inch aftermarket alloys on, which weren't my cup of tea, so I put on some refurbed Honda 17's after about a month of owning her, which was all well and good, until the vsa light came on after a couple weeks after the change. Then went off about a week later. Then nothing. Then returned after about a month and again off after a week or so. It then returned last week and is still on this morning.
My question is, could the change of wheel cause this monthly light? Could it of been calibrated for different wheel size?
I will also try cleaning the sensors around the wheels. Just to eliminate that. Brake cleaner would do the job I guess?
Any thoughts welcome......
Had an Accord since August. Been lovely to drive etc... I'm planning on cleaning inlet manifold if we ever have a nice weekend..... However, I bought it with 18 inch aftermarket alloys on, which weren't my cup of tea, so I put on some refurbed Honda 17's after about a month of owning her, which was all well and good, until the vsa light came on after a couple weeks after the change. Then went off about a week later. Then nothing. Then returned after about a month and again off after a week or so. It then returned last week and is still on this morning.
My question is, could the change of wheel cause this monthly light? Could it of been calibrated for different wheel size?
I will also try cleaning the sensors around the wheels. Just to eliminate that. Brake cleaner would do the job I guess?
Any thoughts welcome......
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Provided you haven't fitted 3 big ones and small one, it's not going to get upset. The wheels will have a similar circumference to each other anyway ***uming you've gone from 225/40-18's to 225/45-17's.
Rayvern Titan
New Member
Fair enough. Just a thought about the wheel.
Honda diagnostics system is your friend . Local Honda dealer or any good local diagnostics garage will have hds.
The common faults are:
Lower linkage bushing
Anti roll bar bushings
Dirty sensors
Brake sensor
Throttle position sensor
VSA Control module
Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
The common faults are:
Lower linkage bushing
Anti roll bar bushings
Dirty sensors
Brake sensor
Throttle position sensor
VSA Control module
Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
I have a new fault to check for anyone getting vsa light intermittent it appears the accord has problems where the rear pads bind and while driving that will cause the vsa to cause error so make sure you have no brake caliper bind, the easy way to check is to do some heavy braking to heat brakes up and then pull off from stationary and see if there is resistance like handbrake is on.
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Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
SiC
New Member
HI all,
Newb here! I too have the dreaded 66-01 fault (plus a 184-01).I read with interest that this seems to appear after physical work in the engine bay, but what about remaps?
Given that the ECU is in the same unit as the ABS pump and with inputs to the VSA coming from the ECU, could it be that a remap has caused the fault?
Also I see F6HAD has mentioned that if you put in a pump/modulator with a slightly different part no that it will need "calibration". What does this mean - is it a software flash or some such, or a mechanical intervention?
Cheers for such a helpful thread, this is my go-to forum for info on faults or mods etc!
Newb here! I too have the dreaded 66-01 fault (plus a 184-01).I read with interest that this seems to appear after physical work in the engine bay, but what about remaps?
Given that the ECU is in the same unit as the ABS pump and with inputs to the VSA coming from the ECU, could it be that a remap has caused the fault?
Also I see F6HAD has mentioned that if you put in a pump/modulator with a slightly different part no that it will need "calibration". What does this mean - is it a software flash or some such, or a mechanical intervention?
Cheers for such a helpful thread, this is my go-to forum for info on faults or mods etc!
An engine remap cannot cause this, 66-1 refers to pressure sensor failure inside the modulator unit itself.
The recalibration following a replacement unit being fitted is actually a neutralisation sequence which is required to adapt the new unit to the car.
The recalibration following a replacement unit being fitted is actually a neutralisation sequence which is required to adapt the new unit to the car.
Bo_
Members
Read through all 26 pages. Some good info in there! 
Mine VSA came up after clutch change and reading shows 66-1. Tried to delete it, but did not succeeded.
So...could it be linked with some disturbance while changing clutch? Or I just have to swallow replacement/refurb cost and move on?
Mine VSA came up after clutch change and reading shows 66-1. Tried to delete it, but did not succeeded.
So...could it be linked with some disturbance while changing clutch? Or I just have to swallow replacement/refurb cost and move on?
My VSA light came on this morning car was parked on grass and I left in a hurry spinning the near side wheel as soon as the car was started. VSA light can me on. Tied clearing by shorting pins 4 & 9 and grounding pin 9. When I try to clear the abs first the abs light flashes 3 time not 2 as it supposed too. Clearing the VSA does nothing apart from flash the triangle. Engine check light flashes too. Checked all fuses ok.
Codes show as per pic attached, any ideas?
https://vimeo.com/182315989
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Codes show as per pic attached, any ideas?
https://vimeo.com/182315989
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've been doing some night driving, and noticed that there is something that looks like black tape stuck over my warning triangle/VSA lights. Tried pressing the button a few times and it feels like the button wont work (like it's blank or something) and nothing happens to the light on the dash. It cant be seen in daylight hence why I haven't noticed it at all; there is a tiny part of the light visible.
Is this some sort of cowboy fix that's been done? I rooted through all the books/receipts etc and found what looked like some sort of references to the manual that came with the car in relation to the VSA module; not sure if someone has completely disabled it. I had it plugged into a Honda HDS a few weeks ago when I had a dodgy turbo, but no errors were flung up.
My worry (apart form any safety concerns) is will this fail the MOT? It seems to drive just fine to be honest.
Cheers!
Is this some sort of cowboy fix that's been done? I rooted through all the books/receipts etc and found what looked like some sort of references to the manual that came with the car in relation to the VSA module; not sure if someone has completely disabled it. I had it plugged into a Honda HDS a few weeks ago when I had a dodgy turbo, but no errors were flung up.
My worry (apart form any safety concerns) is will this fail the MOT? It seems to drive just fine to be honest.
Cheers!
Histeve said:My VSA light came on this morning car was parked on grass and I left in a hurry spinning the near side wheel as soon as the car was started. VSA light can me on. Tied clearing by shorting pins 4 & 9 and grounding pin 9. When I try to clear the abs first the abs light flashes 3 time not 2 as it supposed too. Clearing the VSA does nothing apart from flash the triangle. Engine check light flashes too. Checked all fuses ok.
Codes show as per pic attached, any ideas?
https://vimeo.com/182315989
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The dreaded vsa issue, the best solution is to get hds diagnositcs to check code
Here are some of the common problems;
- dirty abs sensors remove wheel and clean with jet wash
- faulty brake / clutch switch remove and clean or replace
- sticky rear calipers can also cause intermittent vsa appearing
- the actual modulator can fail as well if you had work done recently then mechanic may have knocked it and damage unit.
Hi there,alex2681 said:
looks like the dreaded vsa warning lights, please post some pics, one of dash instrument panel and one of vsa switch to the right of steering wheel.
Black tape stuck was most likely done as someone could not have been bothered to resolve the vsa issues, see post 523 for some common problems, also in hds there is a neutralization procedure to reset vsa.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
For the MOT, it'll go through provided there's no warning light visible, as it is fine if it's intentionally disabled.
My old daily has had tape over it for quite a while now.
No point spending load of money to fix it when modulating the throttle with my right foot limits wheel spin just as it did before cars had traction control.
If I had to swerve round a moose in the ice however.........who knows?
My old daily has had tape over it for quite a while now.
No point spending load of money to fix it when modulating the throttle with my right foot limits wheel spin just as it did before cars had traction control.
If I had to swerve round a moose in the ice however.........who knows?
Cool, thanks for the heads up can't be too careful around them moose!!
Honda_saj, I'll post some pics before i set off from work, you can't see the light on in the day, and i work nights. I mash the vsa button and it feels blank if that makes sense, like it doesn't connect with any surface or makes any noise.
can't be too careful around them moose!! Honda_saj, I'll post some pics before i set off from work, you can't see the light on in the day, and i work nights. I mash the vsa button and it feels blank if that makes sense, like it doesn't connect with any surface or makes any noise.
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
The button doesn't click or anything. That's normal.
I have the same issue on my Honda accord 2.2 ctdi. I believe the ***y is a ATE Teves MK60, but I have not verified this since my is still in the car. I realy do think this issue can be a soldering gone bad/cracked. This has been the issue on wv that the soldering has "cracked"toffee_pie said:
I will get my out, and if it is possible to get it open I will take a look
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
You can't open them up as they're potted.
It's the pressure switch in them that fails.
There is an option to have them rebuilt with an external switch as well as the standard rebuilds.
Problem I had was loads of the firms have terrible reviews, and I wasn't willing to commit loads of money just to get screwed.
It's the pressure switch in them that fails.
There is an option to have them rebuilt with an external switch as well as the standard rebuilds.
Problem I had was loads of the firms have terrible reviews, and I wasn't willing to commit loads of money just to get screwed.
I had to send my unit in also, I treied to find any information about the sensor, but could not find anything on the net regarding the spec of the sensor that had failed. Here in Norway it cost around 5000 Nok (500GBP) to get the module repaired, and around 13 000 NOK (1300GBP) for as brand new one...
Before some of you jump into the deep end, i would suggest a honda hds or him, to check dtc, clear dtc and calibrate if sensosr is out of calibration you cannot use button to disable the light will stay on permanantely.
Well the problems continue. In the end had the fault code read and it matched the dash 66-1 code. Took out the unit and sent it off for repair, a fault was found on it repaired and returned.
Refitted today, reconnected everything, bled the brakes. Got in turned the key and bam now abs & vsa lights on, check system, check abs, check vsa.
Read the codes again now have b1170, tried resetting it but no good.
Things I've tried: disconnect clean and reconnect the vsa multiplex plug, disconnect the battery for an hour, reset faults using the sel/reset key holding down for 10 seconds - dash beeps nothing clears (using the SCS jumper on the obd port), checked all fuses under the dash and in the engine bay.
Fault persists, worse than it was before now I have no abs as well as no vsa.
Any ideas on anything else that could be causing this? Before I disconnect everything and send it back to the repair chaps?
My car's off the road at the moment, no mot, really need to get it fixed asap.
Cheers
Steve
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Refitted today, reconnected everything, bled the brakes. Got in turned the key and bam now abs & vsa lights on, check system, check abs, check vsa.
Read the codes again now have b1170, tried resetting it but no good.
Things I've tried: disconnect clean and reconnect the vsa multiplex plug, disconnect the battery for an hour, reset faults using the sel/reset key holding down for 10 seconds - dash beeps nothing clears (using the SCS jumper on the obd port), checked all fuses under the dash and in the engine bay.
Fault persists, worse than it was before now I have no abs as well as no vsa.
Any ideas on anything else that could be causing this? Before I disconnect everything and send it back to the repair chaps?
My car's off the road at the moment, no mot, really need to get it fixed asap.
Cheers
Steve
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Goodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Sounds obvious, but have you driven it up the road since?
An update. Took some time and checked out the connector with a multimeter, confirmed all voltages, grounds ect ok. Then took apart the actual connector interlock and reassembled. Plugged it all in and finally the car talked to the vsa module! I think the interlock must have slipped somehow so wasn't quite making the connection. Either that or probes off the multimeter may have cleaned off some crap from a connection, although I did give it a good clean with electrical cleaner. So back working and back on the road with fresh mot. Well happy. Thanks everyone
I think the interlock must have slipped somehow so wasn't quite making the connection. Either that or probes off the multimeter may have cleaned off some crap from a connection, although I did give it a good clean with electrical cleaner. So back working and back on the road with fresh mot. Well happy. Thanks everyoneGoodluckmonkey
TA Friends
Great news!
Hello all I have a 2006 facelift 2.2ctdi that has had the VSA light on a for a few months. No ill-effexts from it apart from the MOT being due in November. My local garage said it had the 66 fault code meaning new unit required etc. It was ordered from BBAReman and arrived last week. Fitted yesterday and the VSA light is still on. He said his diagnostics tool would not let him reset/clear the fault code and the VSA light stayed on which is fun... :/ There was nothing in the instructions apparently from BBAReman about additional steps. Purely fit and that should be it. My mechanic tested the ABS afterwards and said it was fully working but the VSA light remains
Is it possible that the refurb unit is duff? Or is there anything else that we should try? MOT is due in November and really would like to get the issue sorted out
Any help much appreciated
Thanks
Dan
I have a 2006 facelift 2.2ctdi that has had the VSA light on a for a few months. No ill-effexts from it apart from the MOT being due in November. My local garage said it had the 66 fault code meaning new unit required etc. It was ordered from BBAReman and arrived last week. Fitted yesterday and the VSA light is still on. He said his diagnostics tool would not let him reset/clear the fault code and the VSA light stayed on which is fun... :/ There was nothing in the instructions apparently from BBAReman about additional steps. Purely fit and that should be it. My mechanic tested the ABS afterwards and said it was fully working but the VSA light remains Is it possible that the refurb unit is duff? Or is there anything else that we should try? MOT is due in November and really would like to get the issue sorted out
Any help much appreciated
Thanks
Dan
Jon_G
No Longer Active
Probably the new unit just needs the neutralisation procedure to be run?
See post #3 of this thread to read the actual code you currently have and, if it is the 84 ('neutralisation required') code then there are also instructions here for solving this problem... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/23543-obd2-scs-absvsa/
See post #3 of this thread to read the actual code you currently have and, if it is the 84 ('neutralisation required') code then there are also instructions here for solving this problem... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/23543-obd2-scs-absvsa/