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P2004 - IMRC Intake Manifold Runner Control problems

What a massive topic lads, impresive. I just finished reading it, now you got me thinking;) AFAIC my car doesnt suffer from judder problem, its the slight smoking issue (well no more really only in second on hard acceleration, thanks to 244 for diesels me thinks) and low fuel economy. But I am willing to replace the part, just to be sure. Its not that expensive is it? I will try to get the selenoid here in Poland see what price they asking.
Excellent read guy, thankyou.
 
Sorry for the slow reply Dan, the part is about £100, so not overly cheap, but not that expensive if you have the issues.

My findings so far after installing the valve only last night and not the filter as it doesnt arrive till Nov are as follows (touch wood)

There has been a couple of occasions where it hessitates or jerks slightly, but these dont (so far) seem to be anywhere near as prominent or as often.

Also, it seems that the smoking isnt anywhere near as bad, so fingers crossed, but I will keep you posted and provide you with some more longer term results.

On the minus side, I mentioned on another post that I think my manifold is leaking, so will do some more diagnosis on this later as I am hoping the valve may help my MPG as it has been aroung 38 recently, but I dont suppose the manifold will be helping either if its leaking.

Well fingers crossed and I will keep you all informed with some longer term results over the coming weeks.
 
Sorry for the slow reply Dan, the part is about £100, so not overly cheap, but not that expensive if you have the issues.

My findings so far after installing the valve only last night and not the filter as it doesnt arrive till Nov are as follows (touch wood)

There has been a couple of occasions where it hessitates or jerks slightly, but these dont (so far) seem to be anywhere near as prominent or as often.

Also, it seems that the smoking isnt anywhere near as bad, so fingers crossed, but I will keep you posted and provide you with some more longer term results.

On the minus side, I mentioned on another post that I think my manifold is leaking, so will do some more diagnosis on this later as I am hoping the valve may help my MPG as it has been aroung 38 recently, but I dont suppose the manifold will be helping either if its leaking.

Well fingers crossed and I will keep you all informed with some longer term results over the coming weeks.


Nick,

interesting that you noticed the slight jerks etc, do you find it happens when the car is part warm or at temp and does it do it roughly twice and then that is it?

I've noticed the same on mine (both parts replaced) but to be honest the jerk is hardly noticeable in relation to before.

Oh I did the reset ECU thing also and it did the two little jerks afterwards, though I didn't notice it today.
 
I think its there most the time still, but just not as bad.

I am pretty sure it isnt smoking as bad, but will give it a week or two and hopefully have the filter by then.

I also reset the ECU, but if the manifold is cracked then it wont be helping anything.

Will keep you posted.
 
I think its there most the time still, but just not as bad.

I am pretty sure it isnt smoking as bad, but will give it a week or two and hopefully have the filter by then.

I also reset the ECU, but if the manifold is cracked then it wont be helping anything.

Will keep you posted.


Well not long until the HH Meet, are you still having the diagnostics?

What is the mileage, presume if the manifold has cracked it is still covered under the extended warranty, so fingers crossed at least it won't cost any more.

I think it may take a little while until the smoking goes I would imagine it also depends on how you drive it etc.

I've not noticed much smoke, not like when the solenoid was disconnected, but since I've replaced both parts I've run the full rev range to clear it out a little and fully open the EGR.
 
Yeah, still having the diagnostics Carl. Just to see if anything else shows.

Mileage is 65,000 so should be covered if it is leaking. Did the Fahad smell test behind the engine and it does wiff a fair bit so it seems as though it cracked ;)

I am giving it a good blast every now and then, but its hard in rush hour as I sit in traffic doing around 50-60 on the M1 in the evening and well.... in the morning the traffic hardly moves :blush:
 
Yeah, still having the diagnostics Carl. Just to see if anything else shows.

Mileage is 65,000 so should be covered if it is leaking. Did the Fahad smell test behind the engine and it does wiff a fair bit so it seems as though it cracked ;)

I am giving it a good blast every now and then, but its hard in rush hour as I sit in traffic doing around 50-60 on the M1 in the evening and well.... in the morning the traffic hardly moves :blush:


Well at least you know Holdcroft aren't going to mess you around, so hopefully they may have some other suggestions and be able to confirm the manifold.

Yeah I see what you mean with the traffic, I tend to go in when I wake up , get more done then, but it has the added advantage of the roads are clear, but I tend to use the full revs on 3rd and 4th gear, but only short bursts.
 
Is it also worth a mention to do an oil change after suffering from this solenoid fault? Mine has been smoking far too much and as soon as I'm back home I'll be fitting a new solenoid, it also occurred to me that all that extra soot has been making its way into the oil as well as the exhaust system, and we know how badly soot degrades the oil, think timing chain wear etc. So I think an oil and filter change will finish the job off.
 
Is it also worth a mention to do an oil change after suffering from this solenoid fault? Mine has been smoking far too much and as soon as I'm back home I'll be fitting a new solenoid, it also occurred to me that all that extra soot has been making its way into the oil as well as the exhaust system, and we know how badly soot degrades the oil, think timing chain wear etc. So I think an oil and filter change will finish the job off.


Funny you should mention oil change Ed,

Doing mine on Saturday with the Lubetech 0-30w.

The oil looks ready to change and not sure what grade was put in by dealer all I do know is they have overfilled it on the last two oil changes and I had to take it back to be drained off, apparently the machine wasn't calibrated correctly .

So as it (fingers cross as not done an oil change in a while myself) a relatively easy job it is better safe than sorry, plus I'll have nice clean oil for the HH Meet :)

Also touching wood etc, the little two jerks that the car seemed to do after the replacement of both parts and the ECU reset, seems to have abated for now.
 
Guys, just been wondering. When I cleaned the egr and everything else, I also cleaned what I think is the boost pressure sensor. It was absolutely covered in black goo. Wouldnt that play a big part in problems resulting in hestitation, missfire and judder? From what I read it is quite important. See it here:
boost sensor
part 8. Ofcourse it is an expensive part (the smaller the more costly they are...). Anyone tried disconnecting that one?
dan
 
Guys, just been wondering. When I cleaned the egr and everything else, I also cleaned what I think is the boost pressure sensor. It was absolutely covered in black goo. Wouldnt that play a big part in problems resulting in hestitation, missfire and judder? From what I read it is quite important. See it here:
boost sensor
part 8. Ofcourse it is an expensive part (the smaller the more costly they are...). Anyone tried disconnecting that one?
dan


Dan,

Are you referring to the part that is two cylinders with a butterfly valve, that's the IMRC Valve or are you referring to the actual sensor just part 8 ?

Speaking for myself unplugging the IMRC Solenoid noticeably took the hesitation away although since replacing solenoid and separate filter there was only two small hardly noticeable judders. At the present moment in time, these two tiny judders seem to have now disappeared also.

I seem to remember your thread and seeing the IMRC Valve with the tar like substance, which could limit the valves operation, so it's certainly an other area to focus on. I would imagine it would depend on how much that stuff is limiting the movement of the valve.

Did you notice that before you cleaned the valve that the black tar like substance was slowing down the movement of the butterfly valve?
 
Carl, I am refering to the actual sensor part only. I really think it plays an important role. As to the movement of the valve I cant say I feel a difference. I mean It moves easier when done by hand but once installed it didnt make any difference.
I will try to get the part no (bosch probably) and look for a replacement. I also would like to test it, wonder if anyone knows how? found this:
test values for boost sensor
It describes correct voltage and pressure values for some of the sensors. One of these sensors might be the one fitted in our accords.
Search continues:)
 
Carl, I am refering to the actual sensor part only. I really think it plays an important role. As to the movement of the valve I cant say I feel a difference. I mean It moves easier when done by hand but once installed it didnt make any difference.
I will try to get the part no (bosch probably) and look for a replacement. I also would like to test it, wonder if anyone knows how? found this:
test values for boost sensor
It describes correct voltage and pressure values for some of the sensors. One of these sensors might be the one fitted in our accords.
Search continues:)


Right so it is the sensor itself that was covered in "muck" but you managed to clean it, I take it you just unscrewed and detached it from the valve. I'm going to have another look at your thread and have a look this weekend.



The reason I asked about the butterfly valve bit is this controls the swirl and what seemed to be happening with the faulty IMRC Solenoid was it wasn't controlling it correctly giving the hesitation etc, however since replacing said solenoid the hesitation has gone apart for occasionally just two little judders and I was wondering whether it was because the valve was moving but was a little more restricted.

it looks like also according to lings the part is the same for both pre and post face-lifts, even though the valve ***embly is different for both.

Cheers
 
Yes, I unscrewed it and pulled it out. Then I cleaned it thoroughly. Once Im back in the UK I am going to pull the plug out and see what happens. I will also report any ECU error that may occur.
dan
 
Just to update this thread for future use.

Since replacing the IMRC Solenoid and filter 99% of the hesitation and jerking had gone, so clearly in my case it was the solenoid. however I did have a slightly different mini judder (twice when entering the temp range on the gauge) this was nothing like as severe as the hesitation caused by the solenoid, but generally annoying in the way that you don't truly feel you have solved the issue.

Therefore if you are still having issues, here are a couple of other things to check/ do as they also seem to have an impact on the outcome.


1) Rule out IMRC Solenoid.

2) I've changed my oil and filters and before the solenoid, I had changed my fuel filter. So if you are still getting the problem, ensure that these have been recently changed.

3) As Nick (Nesh) has found, replacing the solenoid has solved some of the issue, but has since found that the exhaust manifold is leaking, which is also adding to the issue and therefore this would be the next place to look.

4) I have now cleaned my MAF sensor, MAP sensor and IMRC Valve details of which are here:
MAF&MAP sensor cleaning & IMRC Valve cleaning

Further down in that thread Ed (Ezhik) has put down an alternative method of cleaning certainly the MAF sensor, which maybe more to your liking and should help protect the sensitive Hot wire from accidental breakage.


Please note mine is a face-lift model and therefore some parts might be different.

Dan (Gator) did a great DIY on cleaning the IMRC valve and EGR on the pre-facelift, it appears that the MAP sensor is in a different location, the link to that DIY is here:
Intake manifold and EGR cleaning on i-CTDi EGR to follow


Since doing this I have found the car to now have a silky smooth drive with no jerking, no excessive smoke and running just how I thought it should do.

For me this seems to have completely solved the issue and is certainly the route or check-list I would do, personally before physically replacing expensive parts such as the EGR.
Please bear in mind however my car is on 43k and therefore more likely that the sensors are contaminated, if your car is nearer to 100K+ then maybe get the MAF sensor checked as I have seen that they generally last up to 60k. Maybe CJ can shed some further light on what his experience of MAFs lasting are.

So many thanks to all involved directly or indirectly, I certainly couldn't have solved my particular issue without the information from within the forum as a whole, which highlights how good the forum is :D B)
 
Well done Carl, excellent.

I think what this shows us is that 'full service history' and a lifetime of garage servicing just isn't enough. Years ago I always did my own servicing and repairs out of necessity, I couldn't afford to pay a garage, and I think I always went the extra mile to do a good job. Cars got more complicated, I got more money and began booking them in for work. I now see the shortcoming of that. They get the basics done, but there is no attention to detail, there can't be, time is money and at £100 an hour who is going to spend twice that cleaning a few 'bits'.

All your service history shows is the oil and filters, brakes are done and washer fluid is topped up. Important yes, but does it keep it 'tip top', no. Glad I started to get my hands dirty again, though actually I haven't, mechanics wear gloves these days, what a godsend they are!
 
Most of that is true CJ, but a lot of the cars being discussed in this thread have been to the dealers and they couldn't diagnose it. Remember how long Paul (The Bobby) spent at Hepworth, who are supposed to be a really good dealer. If they had checked the TSB's and spoken to Honda, they might have checked the solenoid valve instead of wasting his money on recoding injectors and replacing an EGR valve.

Nevertheless, great work lads - this is one of the most valuable threads in here now :D
 
Hmm true.. but no offence to HH and you know how much I love them, but they haven't diagnosed one of these yet either on TA :D Credit for this goes to Waj and Carl as far as I can see.
 
Normal servicing still cannot stop faults developing which are unique to the diesel accord. That is a universal fact which is applicable to other cars and engine. Regularly service does pre-long the reliability of the car but it doesn't make it immune from faults.

CJ I am in totally agree with you on this.

it again boils down to the good old perception dealers are perceived as robbers incompetence , cannot diagnose faults let alone fix it .. so a independent will be better bet their costs are low , so if he is not able to fix it at least it didn't rob me !! ...but it doesn't matter the car is still not running right..I have saved money thou that important..

CJ I see where you are coming from, however as Ed mentioned a little earlier in the thread, I too used to service my own car, many years ago, then they brought computers in, things got more complicated, I got more money and certainly my last five cars have been main dealer serviced all the time. All of this time I have advocated using genuine parts, not wasting time with independents, just get it to the dealer if you have a problem.

Then you start to notice things, simple things like pollen filters not replaced, oil overfilled, some people haven't had their diesel filters changed etc, this all has a bearing on the "Perception of the main dealer "
Notwithstanding this however please note that I personally will be taking both our Accords to Holdcroft for any future service work or fault finding, as since seeing them in action I know I can 100% trust them to do what they say they will do and many members I would imagine say the same, but equally I think many people would say Holdcroft is one of a select few of excellent dealers.

As you are aware there are many dealerships that Honda are parting company with and it is most likely these dealers that have caused an increase in the distrust of the main dealer.

now this issue the guys see on the diesel will baffle the independent garage as he would haven't seen this issue on other car to make a comparison . They don't have access to tip and hints which Honda dealers have at their disposal , regular updates from the factory in terms of software updates , TSB access & new fix methods,

If you didn't have dealers or support from manufacturers could these independents actually fix this issue no WAY. So that why when the independents or enthusiasts have has wasted 4 hours and cannot figure whats doing on they send the car to the dealers..:rolleyes: with a track record of fixing issues.
Again personally I agree with you here wholeheartedly, however as Fahad has mentioned with this particular issue, many of the people having this problem have took there's to a dealer for example in this thread

EGR Valve Maybe

Waj on post #27 states "Took the car to honda today, the mechanic drove it and at first he couldn't find the hesitation but after a while he felt it and said it was definitely there. Now he thinks its like a miss when a petrol car misses because of faulty spark plugs etc so he said not 100% sure but thinks it could be a clogged injector.

He also hooked up the Honda Diagnostic System but said no fault codes, so he said he was going to contact Honda Technical, tell them the problem and they will then go from there. He also said that Honda Technical may know of a problem like this with the high mileage of the car but if not then they will have to take it for a road test with live data and see if they can fix it from the live data reading. "


The biggest problem was that it was intermittent fault and certainly in my case would only be there when the engine was cold and it would not produce a fault code until the MIL light was on. It was only when Waj actually had the MIL light come on and get the fault code , together with by chance un-clipping the Solenoid and finding that the hesitation stopped, that it all came to light.

There is one final point to all this of course which is that some people, like yourself, like to get their hands dirty occasionally, granted not all as experienced as yourself, but either through general interest, distrust, or budget or some other strange reason !

CJ, All in all deep down I think you are a bit jealous that all us diesel guys had an issue to solve, whereas you petrol guys only have to think about where you can get your next Vtec hit!! :lol: :lol:


Most of that is true CJ, but a lot of the cars being discussed in this thread have been to the dealers and they couldn't diagnose it. Remember how long Paul (The Bobby) spent at Hepworth, who are supposed to be a really good dealer. If they had checked the TSB's and spoken to Honda, they might have checked the solenoid valve instead of wasting his money on recoding injectors and replacing an EGR valve.

Nevertheless, great work lads - this is one of the most valuable threads in here now B)

Fahad I genuinely don't think this would have been such a big thread with as many views, if many of the dealers had read the TSB's and hopefully with Honda parting company and sorting it's representatives out, it will restore a lot more faith in dealers and stop us upsetting our good CJ ;)

In all honesty though I don't think there is a massive distrust, in the dealers (not Honda anyway), but clearly being a forum you are more likely to read horror stories than "took the car in for a service today and was really impressed, the car feels brand new" in fact you could get banned from trolling, as always it is a select few that spoil it for the rest
 
Yeah I have to agree honda dealers didn't have a definite answer but speculating I'm glad I didn't buy egr egr valve like I was told by them...
 
Great post Carl, and I'm with you on everything.. besides what good would TA be if there was nothing to fix :D
 
Which TA owner here has gone to HH with this issue?:) and it couldn't be fixed?
We will see CJ ;) As mine didnt show up any faults at the HH meet apart from the manifold. I have it booked in for the 22nd for manifold and injector recalibration, but if its still not fixed, it looks like I will have to test their skills again.... following Faddy putting it back to standard that is!
 
I've not had chance to do anything to my car over the last few months but was getting a bit sick of the industrial revolution amount of black soot coming out the rear end, after reading this very interesting thread I bought a filter for the HUGE :lol: sum of £26 and the smoke has gone ;) can't believe it to be honest. Something as daft as that filter which took all of 10 mnutes tops to change sorted it.

I bought it from my local dealer who I don't trust at all after my Type R mess up but they are only local one, they had never heard or noticed it before and said it wouldn't get rid of smoke but little did they know the power of the TypeAccord forum and the top chaps on it ;)

Big thanks to all the input on here, it's probably saved me a small fortune.
 
Good stuff Lee... told ya dint I ;)
 
I've not had chance to do anything to my car over the last few months but was getting a bit sick of the industrial revolution amount of black soot coming out the rear end, after reading this very interesting thread I bought a filter for the HUGE ;) sum of £26 and the smoke has gone ;) can't believe it to be honest. Something as daft as that filter which took all of 10 mnutes tops to change sorted it.

I bought it from my local dealer who I don't trust at all after my Type R mess up but they are only local one, they had never heard or noticed it before and said it wouldn't get rid of smoke but little did they know the power of the TypeAccord forum and the top chaps on it :D

Big thanks to all the input on here, it's probably saved me a small fortune.

Nice one Lee,

Interesting that just the filter had such an improvement.

What mileage is the car on ?
 
Think its done 50k

If there is any smoke I can't see it from the inside looking through my side mirrors, I could before, I could hide a tank in the amount of rubbish that was coming out before.

I normally tootle up a hill near me in traffic in third going 30mph and when I get to the top and build up a bit of speed every time it gives a big cough, I'll see what happens tomorrow and report back.

Fingers crossed it has sorted it.

Strange such a small nothing part seems fingers crossed to have sorted it.

Even if there is some I'm more than happy I'm not killing children at the side of the road anymore when I go past ;)
 
Think its done 50k

If there is any smoke I can't see it from the inside looking through my side mirrors, I could before, I could hide a tank in the amount of rubbish that was coming out before.

I normally tootle up a hill near me in traffic in third going 30mph and when I get to the top and build up a bit of speed every time it gives a big cough, I'll see what happens tomorrow and report back.

Fingers crossed it has sorted it.

Strange such a small nothing part seems fingers crossed to have sorted it.

Even if there is some I'm more than happy I'm not killing children at the side of the road anymore when I go past B)

That's a similar mileage to mine, so I would imagine the filter was in the same state.

Have you had any of the other problems or was it just the smoke ?

I found that mine would smoke sometimes, but not always, best way to test is at night with car headlights behind!
 
The cars behind me no longer have headlights that I can see... they need there industrial strength fog lights on to see through the plume I leave B)
 
The cars behind me no longer have headlights that I can see... they need there industrial strength fog lights on to see through the plume I leave ;)
:lol: :lol: soon be over mate and then you'll be able to see who's behind you once again, good or bad
 
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