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Mine allows me to stream music via bluetooth which is why I wanted it to work with all speakers. I might see if I can find my previous lead and have another go with it. I already have the hft as standard so mainly want it for the music.

I tried fitting one of these to my previous Accord but found it didn't mute the tweeters on the dashboard or the sub. I can't remember which adapter I bought but can someone recommend one that works with the premium stereo with satnav that allows the parrot to use all the speakers?

I only wish I had done mine sooner because for a fairly simple and cheap job they have made a massive difference. I think that is probably the second time mine have been done and the car is now on 156k miles.

My anti rollbar bushes looked ok until I removed them. Changed them today and only took about half an hour. Total cost approx £10 from HH

The side light bulbs are supposed to be changed via the wheel arch, it even shows you in the handbook.

Half the price of UK ones then.

Yes lots of electronic equipment has a small fuse inside just after the power comes in to the unit. I would replace with another fuse rather than solder though.

How much are the camber arms from the U.S. out of interest?

If it is coming and going then it would definitely be worth checking the connectors under the seats and possibly on the seat belts too. If one isn't quite making contact you are going to get this kind of error.

Hardest part of drop links is getting the old ones off, but an angle grinder or similar makes it much easier. To check them lie underneath the car, get hold of them and give them a good shake. If you can feel any knocking they need changing. If they are both fine then it's more likely the anti...

It could be worth looking at the fuses and wiring for your current stereo first. They don't often fail completely and sellers of cars don't always tell the whole truth.

Certainly not a common fault on the accord unlike some other cars. You could try unplugging and re plugging the connector under the passenger seat after disconnecting the battery first. Would any of the machines attempt to reset the fault?

Usually a smf is cheaper than a dual mass one, but the clutch is usually more expensive so it sort of balances out in the end. This is just cars in general not just the Accord. I'm not sure why your noise is coming and going, possibly the clutch is trying to adjust itself up a bit. I would be...

Has the correct battery been fitted when it was replaced?

Has it got a tuning box fitted or has it been remapped at all?

Lie under your car, grab hold of the driveshaft and give it a shake. If it is loose and moving around then you have found your problem. If it fails when driving then you will lose drive but if the driveshaft comes out and flails around it could do a lot more damage especially if this happens...

There is a sensor on each wheel which detects a pickup from a toothed wheel to tell the car how fast each wheel is turning or if one has stopped turning etc and will cause the abs to release the brakes on that wheel if needed. Since your noise started at the osr wheel I would start by looking...

I'm in pretty much the same boat, I get bored easily and this is my second Accord. Though from previous experience I feel that Audis perceived reliable reputation comes from their older cars and the modern ones although nice are no where near as reliable. I'm looking elsewhere

No its quite easy to get to, but it might be worth checking that all connections to the stereo and amp are securely in place, especially if someone has added or removed a hands free phone system or similar

There is a small amp under the dvd unit but I can't remember which speakers it feeds. I'm guessing you have checked the obvious and no one has moved the fader to the rear speakers.