Jeremy the new valve will probably cure the P2004 but sounds like your EGR might be sticking causing the surge of power. The whole loop can be disabled as part of an engine remap, details in my signature below.
P2004 - IMRC Intake Manifold Runner Control problems
- Thread starter waj1974
- Start date
Finally got to the root of my probs. Had intake valve cleaned (it was so bad that it was completely clogged up with gunge that I had to put my finger through it to see daylight!) then cleaned the EGR valve as this had so much carbon on it it wouldnt close. Test drove the car with computer linked to it and it felt much better and more responsive but still a little hesitant at lower revs before turbo kicked in. Laptop said the airflow was below spec so 'we' removed and cleaned the air flow sensor by spraying electrical contact spray through the body to clean the sensor wire in the MAF and bingo!!! Car now runs as it was built. Feels like a new car.
Sounds like a car that does a lot of local miles with lots of start/stop and not enough long runs that will clean out the inlet valve. Consider having the EGR disabled to ensure reliable running if that's the kind of life it's going to continue leading, i'm seeing Honda's regularly now with these issues.
Sounds like a plan Fahad. Once back from hols and can save some dosh then will be in touch as I was thinking of upping the power/torque as intend to do a lot of towing so the extra torque would be helpful. Can I ask, what is the point of having the EGR in the first place if disabling it doesn't affect the engine?
A nice simpe answer.. :lol:
What is the power/torque differences between stage 1 and stage 2 upgrades that you offer? Is it purely software changes or also mechanical parts required on stage 2? Sorry for the ignorance here...
What is the power/torque differences between stage 1 and stage 2 upgrades that you offer? Is it purely software changes or also mechanical parts required on stage 2? Sorry for the ignorance here...
It's an ECU remap for Stage 1 or 2 Jeremy.
Stage 1 @ 180bhp/285lbft peak
Stage 2 @ 192bhp/325lbft peak
The Stage 2 is more of a performance tune and tuned in a different way to Stage 1 to achieve the higher torque figures. I wouldn't recommend it on a standard clutch.
Stage 1 @ 180bhp/285lbft peak
Stage 2 @ 192bhp/325lbft peak
The Stage 2 is more of a performance tune and tuned in a different way to Stage 1 to achieve the higher torque figures. I wouldn't recommend it on a standard clutch.
Hi Everyone, just joined. The info on here is really useful. have had a problem with my accord which has been getting worse and no dealer has yet been able to diagnose. when accelerating, there is no response at all to pushing the pedal but if you lift off and the push it down again, sometimes it goes. When it does get through this "flat spot", it goes like a train. Having just moved to Devon, I took it to a local dealer and they have said that it was the FSV. So, I ordered one and put it on today and it has made no difference. Do I need to reset the ECU to recognise the new part ? Mileage on my car is now 184,500. Thanks. Laney.
Hi Martin, no mate, resetting the ECU should make no difference - the part either works or it doesn't.
I know I must sound like a broken record over this, but if you've done your fuel filter already then next most likely cause is a stuck/sticking EGR valve.
I know I must sound like a broken record over this, but if you've done your fuel filter already then next most likely cause is a stuck/sticking EGR valve.
Hi fahad,
Thanks for the swift reply. Fuel filter has been done. When all of the problems started, that's what the Honda dealer in Crewe said. i bought a 2nd hand EGR off a low mileage car which was said to be running fine before it was written off . I cleaned it before fitting but that made no difference to the problem. Yesterday, after fitting the new FSV i took the car for a run. When I got back, I left the engine running and noticed that the swirl valve was fully open and the engine sounded like it was missing. i disconnected the FSV electrical connection and the swirl valve closed and the engine then started to run more smoothly. I have cleaned out the swirl valve and chamber around it and it moves very freely. I have put a basic circuit tester across the FSV connector and only get a very faint glow - does this mean it is not getting enough power or signal from the ECU ? Before I bought the FSV, I did disconnect the old one and the hesitation when pressing the throttle disappeared but there was a lack of power higher up the rev range. This is really starting to do my head in now - I need a reliable car but can't afford to spend loads on it, having just moved house and then being made redundant !! Anyone want to buy a "nice" Accord exec tourer ??
Thanks.
Martin.
Hi Fahad,
Further to my previous post, have had another look at thiings this morning. When starting from cold, the swirl valve is being moved by the vacuum so that the engine runs smoothly and when driving from cold, there is no hesitation. When up to temperature though, it seems like the swirl valve is being held permanently open and this makes the engine really lumpy on tickover. I switched off and the started again and the swirl valve is imediately fully opened again. I disconnected the sensor just down from the swirl valve - is this the MAF or MAP, not sure - and the swirl valve closed and the engine started to idle smoothly again. It seems like everything is linked and you have to replace each bit in turn until the problem is cured ! Any suggestions ?
Thanks. Martin
Hi Huskyman,
Thanks for this - have tried this and still runs exactly the same - you put your foot on the throttle and up to about 1800rpm it is ok. Then it just sits at 2,000 rpm regardless of how far down you push the pedal. Lifting off and putting down again eventually gets you through and then it pulls like a train - all the way to the redline if required ! Not good when pulling out of busy junctions or trying to overtake !!
Do you know whether the swirl valve should be open or closed when the engine is warm and just ticking over ? Mine is fully open but closes when you rev it. I did move it to the open position manually when it was closed and this just caused the engine to run like it has a misfire - if the FSV or something else is causing it to stay open when it should be closed, this may be the cause of the problem.
Thanks for your help so far.
Martin
Hi Jeremy,
I have cleaned all of the sensors i can think of and still I have this problem. I am taking back to the local dealer on tuesday to see of they can shed any more light on this. I hope they can as I need the car to tow my caravan in a weeks time - last time i towed it was very embarassing - so slow !! It used to tow really well.
Anyone else got any ideas ?
Thanks
Martin
CJM
Dr. Diesel
Martin,
Depending on whether you have a facelift Accord (say after 55 plate or 6 speed box) then have a look at this thread Link as it sounds like it could be a boost issue, what was done in this thread was he changed two solenoid's around to help diagnose the symptom.
Of course it would be better to get some fault codes, but sometimes they just don't show, perhaps because the failing part has not quite gone. I'm only suggesting the link as it is something you could do yourself, if of course it seems to work, then you will need to replace the part.
It could be that you have a couple of issues one of which is now solved with the new FSV, given the mileage I'd also check the Vac lines for splits.
Any other symptoms you can tell us?
Hi Carl,
Thanks for this. Have checked all of the vac lines and there does not appear to be any splits or leaks and vacuum at the swirl valve control seems ok. Mine is a prefacelift 2004 (54reg). I took it back to the local dealer today and they have diagnosed "low fuel rail pressure" - having spoken with the technician he told me that this was the only test it failed on. It could need a new high pressure fuel pump ( at £2,000 it's more than the car is worth !! ) or a problem with the fuel pick pump in the tank - if it has one as he said that not all models have them. Anybody got any experience of changing the HP pump - the technician said it's about a hours work - just remove the air box and access is quite easy. Having had a look, it does seem fairly straightforward - i just need to find one secondhand !!
Any else I should look at before spending money on a new HP pump . I need to do this so I can sell the car - couldn't sell it privately as would not feel right palming it off on someone else and the same goes for a part ex deal really.
Thanks
Martin, sorry I've not read your post properly so you may have answered but Low Fuel Pressure (P1064) then it's normally down a poor or blocked fuel filter. A very common issue.
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1019-i-cdti-engine-cuts-out-when-accelareting/
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1019-i-cdti-engine-cuts-out-when-accelareting/
Hi Fahad,
Fuel filter has been done by a previous Honda dealer in Stoke on Trent - although they did use a Bosch filter instead of a Honda one.
Martin.
CJM
Dr. Diesel
Did the technician give you the actual fault codes ?
Also when did the symptoms first appear, was there any other thing noticeably different ?
I know you have had the filter replaced, was it doing this before or after the filter replacement, also how long and how many miles since the last filter was replaced?
In respect of "it could need a new HP pump" was that the first thing he said i.e the specific code was saying low fuel pressure, but relating to the pump?
Have a look at this thread, slightly different to your situation, but the code related to the fuel pump, specifically read post #16 Engine Dies when warm it might be worth a try for the cost of a can of BG244.
Jon_G
No Longer Active
I agree with Carl that you really must get the actual fault code - if it is the high pressure diesel pump (and/or it's faulty regulator internal regulator valve) then the ECU error code would be P0087 for insufficient fuel rail pressure (this is measured by a sensor on the battery end of the fuel rail), but this fault could also be caused by a restricted fuel supply from the tank to the pump (maybe fuel filter or kinked pipe?) but this would also throw up additional codes that would help to pinpoint the problem area. I suggest you buy a cheap OBD2 reader like I did (on eBay), if necessary. I take your point regarding the cost of a new pump outweighing the value of the car - I was in this position a few weeks ago and was considering buying a secondhand pump (there are usually some on eBay for less than £250) but I did have concerns about reliability. If you did read the above link then you'll see that I put a whole can of BG244 into the fairly low fuel tank and this does seem to have loosened what I believe was a 'sticky' regulator within the diesel pump (and this was probably also aided by my previously replacing the entire complete fuel rail, which probably wasn't faulty but did act to drain all fuel from the high pressure side of the pump which then meant that it had to move a lot of fuel when first started up and this may then have flushed wax/dirt/whatever from inside the pump/regulator). I would have rather performed a 'proper repair', but since the draining of the fuel rail and use of BG244 my car has run absolutely perfectly for over 900 miles (and once it gets to over 1000 miles I'll consider it to be definitely repaired!).
To summarise, if the DTC is P0087 alone, then I reckon it would be worth draining fuel from the fuel rail (as best you can) and sticking a can of BG244 into the tank. ***uming your pump isn't simply worn out, then this might just unstick the regulator valve.
Good luck.
To summarise, if the DTC is P0087 alone, then I reckon it would be worth draining fuel from the fuel rail (as best you can) and sticking a can of BG244 into the tank. ***uming your pump isn't simply worn out, then this might just unstick the regulator valve.
Good luck.
Thanks both for suggestions. Did not get to read them until just now - having boght a pump from a breaker on Ebay. Said it came off a 63,000 car so I bought it. It arrived this morning and feels tighter to turthan mine. Spent about 45 minutes replacing it and guess what - still hasn't cured the problem. When the engine is cold, I get no hesitation or flalt spot at all but as soon as the temp gauge shows warm, the flat spot comes back. What I can't understand is if it's a fuel starvation problem, why the engine pulls like a train when you get past the flat spot. i also noticed when I got back from the roadtest and banging my head against the bonnet, that the engine was lumpy at idle and low revs. I disconnected the FSV - following advice on a previous thread - and the lumpy idle became smooth. I then drove it with this still disconnected and the flat spot and hesitation has gone and the excess smoke too. Obviously, the MIL is on and there is also less power past 3,500 rpm. The FSV is brand new as this is what the fault code showed last week so can anyone explain this ?